Raphael’s Rooms

Some time ago during a visit in Musei Vaticani in the second hour of a slow walk in the crowd, I was simply too tired to admire that what we saw. The Museum is totally overwhelming as far as the number of artifacts, artworks as well as handicrafts all around are concerned. There were moments I made photos just to be able to follow the route quietly later at home. My neck was tense because of the constant looking up onto the frescoes and other ceiling decorations. To be frank, I did not prepare earlier for this visit, so I had no idea what was still ahead of us. For a couple of minutes, we entered an enormous hall with frescoes all around. I did not want to speculate on its size, but this was altogether hundreds of meters. Then there was another room and another. You could have only looked around, stopping for a while, and catching the momentum.

We entered the so-called Raphael’s Rooms, a series of chambers decorated by the Italian Renaissance master Raphael, or his pupils. In fact, the sightseeing route begins in the reverse order. It starts in the Room of Constantine, a great hall designed for reception and official ceremony purposes. The frescoes are not by Raphael himself. Raphael died before he was able to finish them. The work was completed by artists, who worked in his workshop, upon the original Raphael’s design. The room is devoted to the Roman emperor Constantine, who was the first Christian Emperor of ancient Rome.

Only a small fraction of a wall fresco in the Room of Constantine, showing the Battle of Constantine against Maxentius, painted by Raphael’s pupil Julio Romano.

Later on, we visited a series of smaller chambers that had been designed to serve as the pope’s private chambers that are told to be painted by Raphael himself. This can be, however, not entirely true, as Raphael is said to have maintained one of the most significant workshops in Rome. Translated into English, it means that he employed many talented people who did auxiliary work for him.

Raphael or Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino (1483-1520), was one of the greatest artists of the Italian Renaissance (alongside Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci). He is one of those artists who died young but left immense art heritage. Raphael’s Rooms are told to be one of his greatest achievements. On the picture left, you can see Raphael’s self-portrait on display in the Louvre collection in Paris.  But artists sometimes painted their self-portraits inside works for which they have been commissioned. One of them (supposedly) is in Raphael’s Rooms on the wall with a fresco depicting the School of Athens. In the middle of it, there are two masterminds of the ancient times: Plato (to the left) and his pupil Aristotle (to the right). The head of Plato is a portrait of Leonardo da Vinci, and that of Aristotle is indeed Raphael’s self-portrait.

Raphael’s Rooms are decorated with frescoes all around. You can admire paintings on each wall and on all ceilings. Because of the crowds, I made only a few photos directing my camera up from above people’s heads. However, on the Musei Vaticani web page, we can admire the empty Raphael’s rooms on pictures and in the form of the virtual tour (>>>).

Below some other photo impressions.

Raphael’s Rooms

The Emperors’ Room

The Borghese Gallery, also known as Galleria Borghese, is an art museum located within the Villa Borghese Pinciana in Rome (Italy). It is one of the most renowned museums in Rome and houses an extraordinary collection of artworks from various periods. The gallery was originally established by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, a nephew of Pope Paul V, and a prominent art collector, and patron of the arts, in the 17th century. He amassed an extensive collection of sculptures, paintings, and antiquities, which he displayed in his private residence, the Villa Borghese. The collection was later transformed into a public museum in 1903. The Villa does not look very impressive from the outside. However, besides the numerous pieces of art, which can be admired inside, the villa is a real eye-catcher in itself with its richly decorated interiors.

Construction of the villa began in 1613. The architects responsible for the design of the Villa Borghese were Flaminio Ponzio and Giovanni Vasanzio. Ponzio was the chief architect of the project and oversaw the overall design and construction of the villa, while Vasanzio contributed to the design of the gardens and the external aspects of the building. The artists responsible for the interior decoration include some of the most renowned names of the time.

The most opulent one of its large halls (there are at least three of them inside) is probably the so-called Emperor’s Room. It is a very spacious hall with walls almost entirely plastered with colorful marble pieces accompanied with numerous reliefs and golden leaves. It is decorated with sculptures and busts as well as by decorative marble tables. Midst of the hall you can admire the ‘Rape of Persephone’ a sculpture by Gianlorenzo Bernini).

By entering the Emperors’ Room, the first association you would have is, it looks like if it was in ancient Rome. (Probably). It is a kind of Roman opulence that it is difficult to find in other European countries. Only Italy was rich in marble, and heavy marble was difficult to transport in past times. (But not impossible for the rich and wealthy >>>). Besides, through years, Rome has developed a kind of second-hand market for building materials. Demolishing an old building often meant taking out the good stuff to install it elsewhere. In Rome, many buildings were redecorated in the XVI and XVII century with building materials that were initially installed elsewhere. In fact, in Rome you never know, whether a decoration you see was made initially for the location you admire, or it decorated some other building in the past.

The hall does not have only a Roman imperial look. It also hosts eighteen alabaster busts of the twelve Roman caesars, sculptured in the XVII century and placed there at the beginning of the XIX century. Hence its name – the Emperors’ Room.

The Emperors’ Room

Just a ceiling. Fresco painted

The view you may admire if you look up entering the entrance hall of the Galeria Borghese.  I will not speculate on its size, but the fresco is for sure more than 100 meters big.

The history of fresco painting dates back thousands of years, with early examples found in ancient civilizations like Egypt and Crete. However, it reached its zenith during the Italian Renaissance, with artists like Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Raphael elevating the form to new heights. Fresco painting was popular not only in Italy but also in other parts of Europe and in the world, used in decorating churches, public buildings, and villas, often depicting religious, mythological, or historical scenes.

Frescoes are a form of mural painting on freshly laid, or wet lime plaster, allowing the paint to become an integral part of the wall. The word “fresco,” derived from the Italian “affresco” means “fresh”. As the plaster dries, it reacts with the pigments, resulting in a durable and long-lasting artwork that is uniquely bonded with the wall’s surface. Interestingly, if the painter did not manage to put color onto the plaster before it dried up, the plaster had to be removed and put on once again. This technique was however not suitable as a painting technique for countries where the climate is wet and cold.

When a fresco is painted on wet plaster, the pigments chemically bind with the plaster as it dries. This process, known as carbonatation, involves the lime in the wet plaster reacting with carbon dioxide in the air to form calcium carbonate. The pigments become an integral part of the wall, resulting in a colorfast and long-lasting image. This intrinsic bond between the paint and the plaster means that frescos can endure for centuries, even millennia, with minimal fading or deterioration of the colors. This is why we can today admire ancient frescos, such as those found in the ruins of Pompeii or in Egyptian tombs. while the fresco itself is durable, the surface it’s painted on can be vulnerable. If the wall or ceiling suffers structural damage, the fresco can be compromised. The durability of frescos is also dependent on factors like the environment and the quality of the materials and techniques used

Frescoes were also painted with a technique called fresco secco, where the painting was applied on dry plaster. Secco” stands in Italian for “dry”. In this technique, the paint merely adheres to the surface rather than becoming an integral part of the wall. On the other hand, fresco secco allowed for greater flexibility and detail in the artwork. Artists could take their time with the painting process, add finer details, and use a wider range of pigments, some of which were not suitable for wet plaster. Fresco secco was often used for retouching or adding details to traditional frescoes, combining the strengths of both methods.

Galleria Borghese is an art museum located within the Villa Borghese Pinciana in Rome (Italy). It is one of the most renowned museums in Rome and houses an extraordinary collection of artworks from various periods. The gallery was originally established by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, a nephew of Pope Paul V, and a prominent art collector, and patron of the arts, in the 17th century. He amassed an extensive collection of sculptures, paintings, and antiquities, which he displayed in his private residence, the Villa Borghese. The collection was later transformed into a public museum in 1903. The Galleria does not look very impressive from the outside. However besides numerous pieces of art, which can be admired inside, the villa is a a real eye-catcher in itself with its richly decorated interiors with among others colorful frescos.

Just a ceiling. Fresco painted