The Panthéon of Paris

The Panthéon in Paris — not to be confused with its Roman counterpart — is a must-see landmark in the French capital. Unlike many of the city’s historic monuments, it is relatively recent, completed in the late 18th century. It stands atop Montagne Sainte-Geneviève, a hill that once formed the heart of Roman Lutetia, home to the ancient Forum. The site held religious significance long before the Christian era, making it a fitting location for what would become both a church and, later, a civic temple.

Originally, the Panthéon in Paris was conceived as a church dedicated to Saint Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. It was commissioned by King Louis XV, the great-grandson of Louis XIV, as a votive offering in gratitude for his recovery from a serious illness. This grand new structure was intended to replace the deteriorating medieval church that had long stood on the same site. The design was entrusted to Jacques-Germain Soufflot, one of the leading French architects of the 18th century, whose work on the project began in 1758. Soufflot aimed to create a monumental neoclassical structure that would reflect the rational ideals of the Enlightenment, combining architectural purity with engineering ambition. Drawing inspiration from ancient Roman and Greek forms, his design is characterised by symmetrical proportions, a cruciform layout, and a majestic façade adorned with Corinthian columns. These elements create a striking sense of balance and gravitas, drawing the visitor’s gaze upward. Yet the project was not purely religious or aesthetic; it also carried a political message. At a time when the monarchy’s image was weakening, Louis XV used the gesture as a way to reconnect with his people and reassert his authority through an act of public piety wrapped in architectural grandeur.

The construction of the Panthéon lasted from 1764 to 1789, concluding just as the French Revolution began to unfold. Remarkably, the building was completed only months before the storming of the Bastille, a moment that came to symbolise the collapse of the Ancien Régime. Although originally conceived as a place of worship, the Panthéon was almost immediately reclaimed by revolutionary ideals. In line with the Revolution’s emphasis on secularism and civic virtue, the National Constituent Assembly voted in 1791 to transform the newly built church into a temple of the nation, intended to honour the great men of the era of French liberty. Among the first to be interred were Voltaire and Rousseau, figures who had helped shape the very ideals the Revolution sought to realise. Under Napoleon, the Panthéon briefly regained its religious function, only to revert once more to a civic role. Over the following decades, it oscillated between sacred and secular status no fewer than five times, reflecting France’s own turbulent shifts between monarchy, empire and republic. It was not until 1885, with the state funeral of Victor Hugo, that its secular identity was firmly established — and has remained so ever since.

Although the building had begun serving as the Panthéon from this point onwards, its secular status was not consistently maintained. Until 1885, in line with the political fluctuations between Republic and Empire, it was twice reconsecrated as a church. Architecturally, however, the Panthéon has always retained the character of a religious structure: it follows a cruciform floor plan, and its distinctive triple-dome system — an engineering marvel of its time — was inspired by St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The outer dome, visible from across the city, conceals two interior shells that provide structural support for its immense weight. Inside, a number of impressive frescoes depicting scenes from the life of Saint Geneviève remain remarkably well preserved, a reminder of the building’s original dedication.

Today, however, the Panthéon functions as an entirely secular space. Its interior also features sculptural works that honour the French Revolution and its ideals, reinforcing the building’s civic purpose. Beneath the main structure lies the crypt, which serves as the burial site for many of France’s most celebrated figures. The crypt itself is austere in design: most tombs are housed in simple stone chambers, often containing up to five individuals. Only a select few have been specially decorated or given prominent positions, reflecting the scale of their national recognition.

Below some photo impressions of this impressive building and its interiors.

One of the most striking architectural features of the Panthéon in Paris is its massive dome, inspired by the Pantheon in Rome. It dominates the skyline and is clearly visible both from the exterior and within the building. The dome is supported by a colonnaded portico featuring elegant Corinthian columns — a hallmark of neoclassical design. Above the portico sits a triangular pediment, richly decorated with sculptural reliefs that depict key moments from French history. At its centre stands an allegorical figure representing France herself, flanked by great Enlightenment thinkers such as Voltaire and Rousseau. Just above, the inscription reads: Aux grands hommes la patrie reconnaissante (To the great men, the grateful homeland) — a message both revolutionary and patriotic. The use of sculptural pediments to convey political or historical meaning was a common feature of neoclassical public architecture, linking the Panthéon to a broader European tradition of monumental symbolism. From its completion in the late 18th century until the Eiffel Tower (1889), the Panthéon remained the tallest building in Paris, its dome dominating the skyline.

The interior of the Panthéon is no less impressive than its exterior, combining neoclassical design principles with layers of historical and cultural significance. Its floor plan follows a cruciform layout, with the central dome positioned at the intersection of the cross-shaped structure. An oculus at the top of the dome allows natural light to filter into the space, creating a dramatic play of shadow and illumination beneath. It was beneath this dome in 1851 that Léon Foucault demonstrated the Earth’s rotation with his celebrated pendulum; a replica of the Foucault pendulum can still be seen today. This architectural arrangement is characteristic of many neoclassical churches and civic buildings, drawing on ancient Roman models reinterpreted through Enlightenment ideals.

The interior is richly adorned with murals and sculptures, many of which reflect the shifting identity of the Panthéon over time. As the building evolved from a religious space to a secular mausoleum, its artistic programme also changed. The subjects depicted came to reflect the values of the French Republic, celebrating national unity, civic virtue and historical memory, rather than purely religious devotion.

As you enter and look straight ahead — towards the place where an altar would traditionally stand — you are instead met with a monumental tribute to the National Convention, the revolutionary assembly first elected in 1792 through universal male suffrage, regardless of class. This bold positioning makes a clear and deliberate statement: the ideals of the Republic have replaced those of the Church. The monument is flanked by allegorical figures of Liberty and the Republic, reinforcing its civic symbolism.

Behind the ensemble is a dramatic fresco entitled Towards Glory, which depicts scenes from the Napoleonic Wars — a reminder of the turbulent period that followed the transformation of the First French Republic into the French Empire under Napoleon Bonaparte.

The Panthéon in Paris serves as the final resting place for numerous notable figures from French history, whose interment within its walls reflects the nation’s recognition of their lasting contributions across politics, science, literature, and philosophy. The crypt below the main structure is arranged with deliberate simplicity, echoing the Revolutionary ideal of equality in death — a powerful contrast to the often elaborate tombs of monarchs and clergy elsewhere.

Among those honoured are:

Voltaire (1694–1778) – The celebrated Enlightenment writer and philosopher, born François-Marie Arouet, was one of the first individuals to be interred in the Panthéon, in 1791. His sharp wit and fearless criticism of religious dogma, intolerance, and absolutism had a profound impact on the intellectual climate of 18th-century Europe.

Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712–1778) – Another key figure of the Enlightenment, Rousseau is best known for his influential writings on political philosophy, education, and human nature. His belief in the general will and the natural goodness of man helped shape modern concepts of democracy and social contract theory. His remains were transferred to the Panthéon in 1794, just two years after Voltaire’s, symbolically reuniting two intellectual rivals at the heart of the Republic.

Victor Hugo (1802–1885) – The celebrated French writer, poet and playwright, Hugo is best known for his literary masterpieces Les Misérables and The Hunchback of Notre-Dame. A towering figure in French Romanticism and a vocal advocate for social justice and republican ideals, he was given a state funeral attended by over two million people. His burial in the Panthéon in 1885 marked a turning point, firmly establishing the building’s role as a secular monument to national memory.

Émile Zola (1840–1902) – A prominent novelist and playwright, Zola is best known for his powerful works of naturalist fiction, including Germinal and Nana, which exposed the harsh realities of working-class life in 19th-century France. His writing frequently engaged with social injustice, political corruption and human suffering, making him one of the most influential public voices of his time. He was interred in the Panthéon in 1908, in recognition not only of his literary achievements but also his courage during the Dreyfus Affair, where he famously defended truth over nationalism.

Marie Curie (1867–1934) – A pioneering physicist and chemist, Curie is renowned for her groundbreaking research on radioactivity, for which she was awarded two Nobel Prizes – in Physics and in Chemistry – the first person ever to achieve this distinction. In 1995, she became the first woman to be interred in the Panthéon on her own merits, a historic recognition of both her scientific achievements and her enduring legacy in a field long dominated by men.

Louis Braille (1809–1852) – The inventor of the Braille system, which revolutionised written communication for the blind and visually impaired. Blinded as a child, Braille developed his tactile reading and writing system while still a teenager, and it would go on to transform access to education and literacy worldwide. His remains were transferred to the Panthéon in 1952, marking the centenary of his death and honouring his profound humanitarian contribution.

René Descartes (1596–1650) – Although he died over a century before the construction of the Panthéon, Descartes was posthumously honoured for his contributions to philosophy and mathematics when his remains were transferred there in 1819. Often regarded as the father of modern philosophy, he is best known for his statement Cogito, ergo sum (I think, therefore I am) and for laying the foundations of analytical geometry. However, some historians have questioned whether his remains are still housed in the Panthéon today, as they may have been lost or displaced during earlier reburials.

Alexandre Dumas (1802–1870) – The renowned novelist and playwright, Dumas is celebrated worldwide for his swashbuckling tales such as The Three Musketeers and The Count of Monte Cristo. His works, translated into dozens of languages, have shaped popular culture across the globe and remain among the most widely read of all French literature. His remains were transferred to the Panthéon in 2002, more than a century after his death, in recognition of his enduring literary legacy.

Joséphine Baker (1906–1975) – Born in the United States, Baker became an internationally acclaimed dancer, singer and actress, and later a heroine of the French Resistance during the Second World War. She was also a prominent civil rights activist, using her fame to challenge racial segregation and inequality. In 2021, she became the first Black woman to be interred in the Panthéon, honoured both for her cultural influence and her unwavering fight for freedom and equality.

Recent decades have seen new figures added — including Simone Veil (1927–2017), a Holocaust survivor and pioneering advocate of women’s rights — underscoring that the Panthéon is not a closed chapter but a living testament to the values France chooses to honour.

Today, the Panthéon stands as a living monument, one that continues to evolve with each new entombment. As France reflects on its identity and collective memory, debates persist over who should be accorded a place within this national shrine. In this sense, the Panthéon is not merely a static museum, but rather a mirror of French values and ideals across the centuries.

The Panthéon of Paris

Pantheon of Rome. The Egyptian challenge

The Pantheon, Rome. At its front, sixteen Corinthian columns ‘made in Egypt’ and transported hundreds of miles to Rome, ancient Rome …

The Pantheon of Rome holds a rich historical significance dating back to 27-25 BC when it was initially constructed by the consul Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa. According to Roman mythology, this iconic structure was believed to have been built on the spot where Romulus, the legendary founder of Rome, was carried away by an eagle after his passing. The original building unfortunately succumbed to a destructive fire in 80 AD; however, it was the emperor Hadrian who undertook the massive task of reconstructing the Pantheon between 118 and 125 AD, bestowing upon it a new and awe-inspiring design that has endured through the ages.

Interestingly, amidst the grandeur of the Pantheon’s new interior design, an intriguing historical anecdote persists. It is said that Emperor Hadrian was so deeply engrossed in the architectural refinements and embellishments that he became embroiled in a dispute over some technicalities with the principal architect. This altercation escalated to such a degree that Hadrian, consumed by his obsession with the Pantheon’s design, ultimately ordered the architect’s execution. This captivating tale adds a layer of intrigue and drama to the already rich tapestry of the Pantheon’s history, reflecting the profound significance and influence of this ancient marvel.

After the reconstruction, only the original portico with sixteen Corinthian columns was preserved. As a tribute to the consul Agrippa, an inscription was added at the top saying: M.AGRIPPA.L.F.COS.TERTIUM.FECIT, otherwise: “M[arcus] Agrippa L[ucii] f[ilius] co[n]s[ul] tertium fecit”. It means: “Marcus Agrippa son of Lucius consul for the 3rd time built this”.

The massive Corinthian columns supporting the portico are each 12 m tall and 1.5 m in diameter. The column shafts are of granite monoliths that were excavated from two Egyptian quarries. The eight original light grey columns of the front row came from the imperial quarry at Mons Claudianus. The pink column shafts (called pink Aswan) of the middle and back rows came from the Assuan region. They were first dragged many kilometers from the quarries to the Nile river on wooden sleds. Afterward, they were floated by barge down the river when the water level was high enough during the spring floods. Finally, they were brought by ship from Egypt to the Roman port of Ostia and further pulled up the Tiber river to Rome on barges. Quite a challenge having in mind that each of the columns weights around sixty tonnes.

As you may, however, notice on the photo, not all columns in the front row are light grey. In the Middle Ages, the left side of the portico was damaged. Three columns had to be replaced. Another challenge. Finally, one replacement came from Villa of Domitian at Castel Gandolfo (its remains belong today to the Papal estate) in 1626 AD. The other two came from the Baths of Nero (Rome, no longer existent) in 1666 AD.

Pantheon of Rome. The Egyptian challenge

Vers la Gloire

You enter a famous building, enjoy the architecture, shoot the art pieces that are inside, but because of time constraints (there are so many places to visit), you do not put attention to details. But making photographs has the advantage that you can come back to them later and study.

Yesterday I was reviewing photos I made in the Pantheon of Paris >>>. As I entered the building, I remember I noticed a monument in front of me in the very back of the interior. Naturally a bit later, I came closer to it to take some shots. But following our guide to the door of the crypt on the left-hand side of the monument, I noticed a fresco of a battle just behind it. I am used to frescoes of earlier ages showing mythology or religious scenes. But a horse charge painted directly on a wall was a bit unusual. So, quickly, I made some shots. I almost lost our guide’s voice in my earpiece, thus not giving too much thought to it all I hurried downstairs to the crypts to join the others. (On the photo a general view onto the Pantheon interior. Look straight forward onto the wall behind the monument.)

The fresco, a triptyque, is called Vers la Gloire (English: Forward Glory). It was painted by Jean Baptiste Édouard Detaille, a 19th-century French painter known for his detailed military paintings. Having designed his paintings, he utilized original military uniforms and accessories of the Epoque. Educated at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, Detaille’s talent gained recognition, and he eventually became a professor at the military school of Saint-Cyr. His association with the military extended beyond canvas, as he served as a military officer during the Franco-Prussian War. This firsthand experience infused his paintings with a unique authenticity and emotional depth. Detaille’s artistic contributions earned him numerous accolades, including the Legion of Honour.

Wikipedia says that the fresco Vers la Gloire it was painted 1902-1905. However, in the resources of the Library of Congress, I found two photos dated 1890 showing this fresco, one with a statue of Jeanne d’Arc ahead of it. (Seemingly the statue was replaced later with the monument of the Nationa Convention).

Making the photo, I was not thinking of close-ups. But still making cut-outs was possible on the computer.

I was not able to find any information on whether this mural reflects any specific battle. Still, it is showing a horse charge in times of Napoleonic wars (>>>).

Vers la Gloire