Travelling Scotland: From Glasgow to Iverness

When asked about Scotland, we think of green highlands, Scotch (whiskey), kilts, Braveheart, and two big Scottish cities that are told to compete with each other: Edinburgh and Glasgow (here in alphabetical order).

On our trip to the UK, we were travelling Scotland for four days. Not enough to really get to know this country, but enough to have some impressions. We decided to start in Glasgow, go North taking the West route alongside Clen Coe and Caledonian Canal to Inverness, turn round South-East, and finish in Edinburgh. Below some impressions from our way North.

Somewhere between England and Scotland. Green, however low land with only some hills. If you look closely at the picture, you will see a wall between the fields. Every day in the UK, not to be seen in other European countries. The image lacks sheep – both England and Scotland are famous for wool and wool clothing.

Only ten minutes later (by car). The hills are getting higher and higher. We entered the Scottish Highlands. The picture was made in mid-August. Some weeks later, those darker stains in the green grass will turn violet. The hills and mountains are covered not only with grass but also with heather.

Glasgow. One of Scotland’s main cities. It was Saturday evening. You felt the party time. The main streets were really crowded. It was challenging to take pictures without showing people at the close. 

Unfortunately, we did not plan much time for this city, as we wanted to spend the night in Stirling to get to its castle in the very morning before it gets crowded. If I had to plan the trip once again I would try to get there in the evening, enjoy a Scottish party, in the morning sightsee in the city, go to Stirling, climb to the William Wallace monument (>>>), spent the night in Stirling (the views are breathtaking), and visit the Stirling castle (>>>) the next morning.

In Stirling, we spent the night in the university campus hotel. Coming there on Saturday evening had some appeal as we could discretely observe a genuinely Scottish wedding party. We discovered that kilts and sporrans can have very but exquisite versions. The other thing we found was that when ordering a ‘steak’, you will not get a bigger piece of meat (rare or medium), but some other meat dish.

The next day was about highlands and lakes. Travelling Scotland we crossed the most beautiful part of Scottish Highlands called Glen Coe or Glen of Weeping (>>>). Afterward, we drove alongside the Caledonian Canal that it is a waterway consisting of natural lakes and artificial canals (>>>). One of its lakes is the famous Loch Ness.

On our way, we stopped at one of the small cities on the Caledonian Canal called Fort William. The houses on the picture were typical for the region.

A bit of window shopping at the kilt shop. If you asked yourself what a sporran was – you can see it in the picture. It is a small bag worn with a kilt.

Inverness, the end of our trip North. We spent the night a bit below the Loch Ness. Travelling Scotland we could not resits of at least take a look on the famous lake. Our lodge was very comfortable with walls and floors covered with tapestries of Scottish wool. Whike on continental Europe (mid-August), there was a heatwave with nights around 25 degrees Celsius. In this part of Scotland, the night temperature was around 5-7 degrees

Travelling Scotland: From Glasgow to Iverness

The Golden and Silver Pavilions of Kyoto

While staying in Kyoto, the former capital city of Japan, presently considered as the religious center of Japan, we visited several temples or temple complexes. Two of them were Zen Buddhist temples with small buildings called Pavilions at their focus – the Temple of the Silver Pavilion and the Temple of the Golden Pavilion.

Both Pavilions were commissioned ages ago by Japanese Shoguns of the Ashikaga shogunate: Ashikaga Yoshimitsu in the late XIV century (Golden Pavilion) and one of his successors Ashikaga Yoshimasa in the mid-XV century (Silver Pavilion).

Some historical comment is probably needed here. Japan was for a thousand years an empire. Most of the time, however, from the late XII to the late XIX century, the actual rulers of the country were shoguns – the military dictators with absolute power. Emperors held only a ceremonial role. Ashikaga shogunate lasted from 1336 to 1573.

The Temple of the Golden Pavilion.

Kinkaku-Ji or Temple of the Golden Pavilion, also known as Rokuon-Ji or Deer Garden Temple, was initially built in the XIV century. Ashikaga Yoshimitsu bought this place at that time known as Kitayama-dono from a noble family and converted into his retirement villa, a place for contemplation and solitude. After his death, the pavilion and the surrounding buildings were converted into a Zen temple and renamed into Rokuon-Ji after his posthumous name Rokuon’in. The posthumous name was an honorary name given to nobles in Japan after they passed away.

The main feature of the pavilion is the golden leaf coat that gives it an outstanding look. The building we can admire today is not the original one. The Pavilion was torched in 1950 by a novice monk and fully restored in 1955. The golden leaf coat was restored in the eighties.

The building is surrounded by a garden of Japanese style with carefully cut trees, clean moss (means with no blades of grass), carefully laid stone formation, small waterfalls, and irises that seem to emerge from the water. The garden is dominated by a small lake (the Japanese call it pond). The pavilion is built just at its edge, so from far away, you are under the impression it is floating on water.

The Kinkaku-Ji gardens with carefully cut trees, clean moss, carefully laid stone formations, small waterfalls, and irises planted in the water.

Ginkaku-Ji, or Temple of the Silver Pavilion or Jishō-Ji or Temple of the Shining Mercy, was initially a villa with a garden that like the Kikaku-Ji, was used by a retired Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa. Like his grandfather, Ashikaga Yoshimasa made arrangements that, after his death, his villa becomes a Zen temple. Initially, the building was to be covered with silver foil. For different reasons, it was, however, never painted with silver. As his successor son died early, Yoshimasa had to reassume the power and responsibilities. He retired again after he arranged for his nephew to step in. Like in the case of Rokuon-Ji, the Temple of the Silver Pavilion was named by his posthumous name that was Jishōin.

The Temple of the Silver Pavilion

The temple is surrounded by a garden, laid out naturally Japanese style. In comparison to other gardens, we saw while traveling Japan, the majority of it was just a natural forest, bushes, and moss climbing a mountain. A small area of it was covered with a bamboo forest. The lower parts were more artificially taken care of with ponds surrounded by stone and moss arrangements, as well as pruned trees.

Japanese Garden arrangements around the Silver Pavilion

Already in other gardens, we saw paths of gravel or gravel raked to form water-like patterns. But here, the first time we saw a raked sand field and a heaped symmetric pile of sand (a small mound) built with much care. At first sight, I thought the gardeners prepared the soil for some plants. The sand arrangements are, however, the part of the garden’s permanent decoration. The pile is said to symbolize Mount Fuji. On the garden schematic, the sand arrangement was described as Ginshadan or the Silver Sand Sea and the sand pile as Kogetsudai or the Moon Viewing Sand Mound. I can only imagine that restored each time after it has rained.

A pond formed of raked sand that symbolizes a sea and a sand mound in the Silver Pavilion Gardens.

The sand and gravel arrangements are a feature of the so-called Japanese rock gardens.

The Golden and Silver Pavilions of Kyoto

Inside the York Minster

York Minster is one of the largest Gothic Cathedrals in Europe. Its construction took over 250 years. The main works were completed in the late 15th century. Although huge and austere, its interiors seem to be very warm, with much light inside. The architecture inside is not coherent. It is a mixture of different architectural solutions and a variety of details, all of course within the Gothic style.

The highlights are the central nave broken in two parts, making the impression of getting lower at its end, 16 m high stained glass windows as well as the choir interior. Below some photo impressions.

York, England, September 2015

Origins of the York Minster trace back to the Roman era, around 71 AD, when the first structure, a wooden church, was built for the baptism of Edwin, King of Northumbria. Over centuries, this church evolved through several reconstructions, reflecting the changing architectural styles. The current Gothic structure began in 1220, under the direction of Archbishop Walter de Gray. His vision was to create a cathedral that would rival the grandeur of Canterbury. The project spanned over 250 years, with completion in 1472, showcasing the evolving Gothic architectural styles, from Early English to Perpendicular Gothic. York Minster is renowned for its remarkable stained glass windows. The Great East Window, completed in 1408, is the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in the world. Another significant feature is the Chapter House, acclaimed for its intricate geometric wooden roof and stunning stained glass. The cathedral has endured various challenges, including fires and war damage. The most severe fire, in 1829, caused by arson, led to significant restoration works. Another fire in 1840, and subsequent restorations, have helped preserve this iconic structure.

Inside the York Minster