Medieval life reconstructed at the Stirling Castle

2020 By justmovingaround in Sightseeing Tags: Braveheart, castle, Medieval, Scotland, Scottish history, Stirling

Stirling Castle was a seat of Scottish kings (see map). It was built originally in the XIIth century. Throughout the turbulent Scottish Wars of Independence, Stirling Castle played a critical role, frequently changing hands between the Scots and the English.

The Scottish Wars of Independence, spanning from 1296 to 1357, were pivotal in shaping Scotland’s national identity. Initiated by English King Edward I’s attempt to annex Scotland, these wars comprised two major phases. The First War (1296-1328) saw iconic figures like William Wallace and Robert the Bruce emerge. Wallace’s victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297 became a symbol of resistance, but it was Robert the Bruce’s triumph at Bannockburn in 1314 that was decisive. The Declaration of Arbroath in 1320, asserting Scotland’s sovereignty, further solidified this period’s significance. The Second War (1332-1357) involved less direct combat but was marked by political intrigue and smaller skirmishes. These conflicts ended with the Treaty of Berwick in 1357, affirming Scotland’s independence. The wars left a lasting legacy of Scottish resilience and the enduring pursuit of self-governance.

The story of William Wallace wa told in the film “Braveheart”, where Wallace was portrayed by Mel Gibson. However, the film takes creative liberties with historical facts. Despite the film’s portrayal, in historical records, it is Robert the Bruce, not William Wallace, who is referred to as “Braveheart”.

William Wallace Monument, view from the Stirling Castle

The William Wallace monument seen from over the walls of the Stirling Castle

The castle as we can admire it today was constructed in XVth, XVIth, XVIIth and early XVIIIth century by successful additions of new premises inside and outside the castle defensive walls. It was mostly in times as it served as the Scottish royal residence.

Later on, the Stirling castle served as an army barrack and a military depot. From the mid-XXth century, much effort had been given to restore the interiors so that they can provide at least a grasp of medieval life. The restored chambers have been opened since 2011.

The internal yard of the Stirling Castle

I must say I enjoyed the sightseeing in Stirling Castle very much. Usually, when visiting castles, you are let in, and go along a predefined route, with no return possibilities. Stirling is organized more openly. You can enjoy it outdoors as well as indoors, freely moving around. Of course, in royal chambers, you follow a defined route entering by one door and leaving by another. By you can return to previous chambers if you want to. It is also possible to make the route once again as the order, in which you visit the castle premises is up to you.

The Stirling castle exteriors

Of the interiors, you can visit the royal lodgings. The chambers are restored, but only a few of them contain furniture so that you can see how it was in the past. Besides the furniture, you can admire hand-woven tapestries. This is not the originals. Still, they had been reconstructed recently to recapture the atmosphere of the Scottish royal court.

During our visit, there were at least three guides inside, each working in another chamber, wearing dedicated clothing and patiently answering questions asked by visitors.

The royal lodgings

The part of the building, where the royal lodgings are located, was turned into a small museum showing not only the history of the castle but also giving insights into the history of Scotland.

A part of the castle I found interesting was the kitchen, fully equipped, with wax figures and food replicas. We arrived at the Stirling castle in the very morning to enter among the first groups on the opening. I left my fellows and somehow found my way to the kitchens. I had around twenty minutes being alone there, so making clean photos was quite easy. Later in royal chambers, taking clean photos turned out to be difficult as the chambers were full of visitors.

The reconstructed castle’s kitchen

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Medieval life reconstructed at the Stirling Castle

Himeji Castle

2017 By justmovingaround in Sightseeing Tags: architecture, castle, fortress, Japan, Shogun castle

From afar, Himeji Castle appears almost unreal – a delicate white silhouette floating above the city. But walking through its quiet, empty interiors reveals a different story: one of defense, ritual, and a surprising lack of ornament.

We got off the Shinkansen train and left the Himeji railway station. And then we saw it – a white castle on a hill. The view was impressive, but at first we didn’t realize just how large the castle actually was. We were standing at the station’s exit gate, facing a wide boulevard, with the castle still two or three kilometers away in the distance.

History and First Impressions

Himeji was established as a castle town in the 14th century, although the area had been inhabited for much longer before that. Himeji Castle, now one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, was originally built in the 14th century by a local lord named Akamatsu Sadanori. Over the centuries, till 17the century, the castle was expanded and renovated multiple times, eventually becoming one of the largest and most impressive castles in Japan. The town around it grew and prospered thanks to the castle’s presence, and eventually adopted the name Himeji. Today, the city is thriving, known for its rich cultural heritage and numerous historic landmarks.

As we approached the gateway to the castle grounds, we had to follow a series of winding, narrow paths between fortification walls, often taking sharp turns. We passed through a succession of smaller gates and baileys. At first, I didn’t think much of it.

In one of the chambers inside, as I looked out through a window, I realized that the castle was a vast complex of fortifications and buildings arranged around its main keep.

Himeji Castle, although never inhabited by a shogun (a military commander in Japan appointed by the Emperor, who held real power until the late 19th century), was under military ownership. As such, it was designed primarily for defensive purposes. The maze-like system of paths between fortifications, baileys, gates, and walls leading to the main keep was an intentional part of the castle’s defense strategy. The entire complex consists of 83 buildings. Remarkably, the structure also proved to be earthquake-resistant throughout its history. Himeji Castle is often referred to as the White Heron Castle, due to it resembles a heron soaring through the sky.

Inside Himeji

It came as a bit of a surprise that every visitor was asked to take off their shoes. Of course, this isn’t unusual in Japan, where it is a common practice in many places. Removing shoes indoors is a traditional custom deeply rooted in Japanese culture. It serves as a sign of respect and helps maintain cleanliness in homes, schools, temples, and other indoor spaces. One reason for this tradition is that many Japanese buildings feature tatami mats -flooring made from woven rush grass, which is delicate and easily damaged by footwear. Additionally, given Japan’s often wet and rainy climate, taking off shoes prevents mud and dirt from being brought inside. This act also symbolically separates the outside world from the interior, reinforcing a sense of hygiene and order.

Visitors to Japan are generally expected to follow this custom when entering private homes, traditional inns, and public spaces such as temples and museums. There are often clear signs and reminders in both Japanese and English to guide tourists.

But it was the first time in my life that I spent nearly two hours in a castle walking barefoot. The system was quite simple: at the entrance (which was located a fair distance from the exit), we were given plastic bags to carry our shoes throughout the visit. At the exit, we put our shoes back on and returned the bags.

Another surprise was that there was absolutely no furniture or other historical objects on display within the castle. As a result, and somewhat to our disappointment, we were given no real insight into daily life in the castle. Still, the building had undergone extensive restoration over several years and was only reopened to the public in 2015. Perhaps in the future, some of its chambers will be furnished with basic items of daily use. We shall see.

In this context, it’s helpful to remember that traditional Japanese interiors often feature low tables and cushions instead of chairs, allowing people to sit comfortably on tatami mats. This style of furniture includes zabuton (floor cushions) and chabudai (low tables). Himeji Castle, like many traditional Japanese castles, did not have beds – instead, people slept directly on tatami mats laid on the floor. Made from woven rush grass, tatami mats provide a soft, cushioned surface that is considered more comfortable than hard flooring.

Sleeping areas within the castle were typically separated by screens or sliding doors, offering privacy, and bedding was stored away in cabinets or chests during the day and brought out at night.

The real experience, however, was all about walking through long corridors and climbing steps that became steeper and steeper the higher we went. The most challenging part was navigating the narrow paths and steep stairs inside the main keep. And we weren’t alone – there were hundreds of Japanese visitors following the same route. (While taking photos, I tried to find moments when the space wasn’t crowded, so what you see in the pictures might be a bit misleading.)

The carpentry in the central part of the castle was particularly impressive. There were few separate chambers – mostly open space, in contrast to the lower parts of the castle, where rooms were arranged along long corridors. We could only imagine that the inhabited areas had once been divided in the traditional Japanese way, using movable panels. In some places, you could still see wooden rails in the floor and ceiling, marking where the partitions once stood.

Another surprise awaited us in the top chamber: it was a shrine, where many Japanese visitors paused to pay their respects to a deity (or deities). By this point in our journey through Japan, we had already come to understand that the Japanese approach to religion is quite different from what we were accustomed to in Europe. Shrines – large and small -can be found almost anywhere in Japan.

Below are some additional photo impressions of Himeji Castle’s interiors and exteriors.

Himeji castle, Japan, vandals and revolutionaries

Himeji and the Meiji Reforms

During the Meiji period (1868–1912), there were plans to demolish Himeji Castle. This era, named after Emperor Meiji, marked a time of profound transformation in Japan’s political and social landscape. During the Meiji era, Japan underwent major reforms aimed at modernization and strengthening its international position. These included the abolition of the feudal system, the introduction of a modern legal and education system, and rapid industrialization through the construction of factories, railways, and infrastructure. The period also brought deep cultural changes, as many traditional customs were modified or abandoned in favor of Western-style dress, music, and language. Traditional structures were often seen as outdated and obstacles to progress.

A number of Meiji leaders believed that Japan needed to embrace modernization and break away from its feudal past in order to compete with Western powers. This mindset led to a wave of destruction targeting traditional Japanese heritage sites, which were viewed as symbols of the old order that had to be removed to make way for the future. One notable example was the demolition of Edo Castle in Tokyo, which had served as the seat of the Tokugawa shoguns for over two centuries. It was dismantled and replaced with a modern imperial palace, symbolizing Japan’s transition from the feudal era to the modern age.

However, not all Meiji-era leaders supported the destruction of historical landmarks. Some recognized the value of preserving Japan’s cultural heritage, and actively worked to protect and restore significant sites. Himeji Castle did not share the fate of Edo Castle. Thanks to the efforts of local citizens and preservationists, it was spared from destruction. In 1931, the castle was designated a National Treasure, and in 1993, it was officially recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Walking barefoot through Himeji Castle wasn’t what I expected — and that’s what made it memorable. It wasn’t about grand interiors or displays, but about space, silence, and the way Japan chooses to protect its past. The experience stayed with me long after we left.

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Glamis castle

2017 By justmovingaround in History, Sightseeing Tags: castle, Scotland

Glamis? A thought? The first association by anybody, who coped with obligatory stuff in international literature while at school, will be with William Shakespeare and his prominent work ‘Macbeth’. The plot is somewhat fictional. But, there was indeed a king of Scots with the name of Duncan (or in Gaelic: Donnchad mac Crinain) and a king of Scots with the name Macbeth (in Gaelic: Mac Bethad mac Findlaích). Macbeth succeeded Duncan at the Scottish throne. King Duncan died however on a battlefield (in August 1040) and not like in Shakespeare’s drama plot murdered in his sleep by his successor in the Glamis castle.

But in fact, there is a castle in Glamis that in past times before it was rebuilt in XVII and XVIII centuries was a fortress worthy of kings. The castle was built in the late XIV century as the seat of the 1^st Thane of Glamis, John Lyon, a nobleman of the French or Norman origin, who married a daughter of a Scottish king.

The castle replaced a hunting lodge. As king Duncan died in 1040, it was even not possible for him to ever visit the Glamis castle. But who cares. According to Shakespeare king Duncan was murdered by Macbeth, Thane of Glamis while staying the night in the Glamis castle. Period.

The very view onto the Glamis castle as it looks like today.

It is not allowed to take photos of the interiors. Many of its chambers are indeed very impressive and simultaneously home like.

In present times, the place is mostly known as the birthplace of the Queen Mother (who died 2002), the mother to Queen Elisabeth II, the current British and Commonwealth monarch. The Queen Mother was born Elizabeth Bowes Lyon, the fourth daughter and altogether the ninth child to the Scottish Earl of Strathmore and Kinghorne. His family seat has traditionally been the Glamis castle. The Earls of Strathmore and Kinghorne are in the straight line descendants of John Lyon, who was given Glamis by a Scottish king. Elizabeth married the famous Bertie, the Duke of York (the second son of the British King). For her husband’s elder brother abdicated for an ‘unroyal’ love, she became the Queen Consort (the King’s wife). Remember the film ‘The King’s Speech’ (2010) with Colin Firth, Geoffrey Rush, and Helena Bonham Carter?

While writing this entry, I was wondering why a daughter of a Scottish Earl, whose title was given through ages unbroken from father to son, had a maiden name consisting of the parts Bowes and Lyon. Unlike in the case of titles given to male heads of the family (here among others Strathmore and Kinghorne) that could have just been granted by a king, a sudden change of the last name of a noble house seemed to be rather unusual. And it was indeed. One of the Earls married a certain Mary Eleanor Bowes, a very affluent businessman’s daughter. In his will, her father, who made his money on mining, stipulated a condition for the bequest. If she was to marry and inherit the money, her future husband was supposed to accept her last name as his own. To meet the condition, the Earl had to ask the English Parliament for permission, which he was finally given. The family last name changed from Lyon to Lyon Bowes. Thank to this Lady and her bequest, the castle and its surroundings could have been generously reshaped.

The royal mementos displayed in the Glamis castle.

On our journey to Scotland, we stopped only for a short visit to the castle. For it is forbidden to make shots of the interiors (the only exception is the room with the royal mementos), we quite quickly went through all chambers that are open to tourists. On our way, we were told stories of ghosts that haunt in the castle. One of them was a child of the family, who was born mutilated, finally bricked up in one of the castle chambers. The other one was a family member (nicknamed Earl Beardie), who was supposed to sell his soul to a devil so that he can play cards till doomsday, with the devil himself. Both stories are not confirmed. But there is also a story of one of the family members, a certain Lady Janet, who was burned at stake for witchcraft. Lady Janet, the wife to one of the Lords of the Lyon family, is, however, a real and confirmed historical figure. She was indeed burned at stake, but rather for political reasons and revenge on her family. The final order was given by James V of Scotland, father to Mary, Queen of Scots, otherwise known as Mary Stewart.

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