Our Lady of Antwerp

It happens quite often that you go to a historical city intending to see a famous building. But on the spot, you see only wrappings and scaffolding. The long-needed renovation works are taking place. So it is today in Antwerp, Belgium. The famous town hall at the Grote Markt is fully wrapped and the higher spire of Our Lady cathedral for its most part, as well. The cathedral is densely surrounded by the historical city. Although the Cathedral is the largest Gothic church in the Low Countries, making clean photos is difficult.

The Antwerp Cathedral seen from the Grote Markt.

Looking from far away onto the Our Lady Cathedral, already, at first sight, one can see the discrepancy between the two towers. The question you ask yourself is, then, was it the original design or the construction works were ceased for some reason. Indeed, a Gothic Cathedral usually consists of two belfries of equal height. And so was the original design. The construction works started in the mid-XIV century. The foundation stone was laid in 1352. During this time, the city was a vital trading center (member of the Hanseatic League), contributing to its economic prosperity. The city became a major financial hub. The construcion of the Cathedral was continued.

But the XVIth century, brought religious tensions, with the rise of Protestantism and the subsequent Spanish Inquisition. Antwerp was heavily affected by the Eighty Years’ War (1568-1648), a conflict for Dutch independence from Spanish rule. In 1585, the Spanish army successfully besieged and captured Antwerp, leading to the city’s decline. In this time after 170 years, works on the Cathedral had been ceased without completion. Several years after, the Cathedral caught fire. It was saved, but the construction works had been postponed. As it turned out, for good. Water used during the firefighting efforts destroyed the ceilings and the Gothic carpentry.

Further damage, came with the French revolution. Our Lady was plundered and severely devastated. The French revolutionary government intended even its demolition, but ultimately the Cathedral was saved. The restoration works began in XIX and ended with a complex revival in the late XX century.

The interiors of Our Lady are now available for visitors for a small fee of EUR 6. Making photos inside, provided that you do not use flash, is allowed. So let us visit the Antwerp Cathedral as it looks like today.

The front looks onto the central nave. Already, at first sight, you notice that the Cathedral is also an art gallery. Some of the huge masterpieces on display are a loan from the Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp.

The central nave, the side naves, the dome, and the apse.

The interior seems very austere. You will not see there much gold. But the thirty-four huge stained glass windows, detailed carpentry, and huge paintings displayed in the side naves are real eye-catchers. Already, at first sight, you are under the impression, that he Cathedral is an art gallery. You may admire here the works by Rubens as well as other Flemish (or Belgian) masters.

Indeed, until the Reformation and the French revolution, pillars, chapel altars and walls of Our Lady Cathedral were decorated by great paintings of Flemish masters. During the religious and revolutionary struggles, many works were destroyed, removed, stolen, or sold. Ultimately, the Flemish authorities could recover works that survived. In 2009, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Antwerp returned eight of the most beautiful altarpieces to the Cathedral. Furthermore, from 2009, eight other works, mainly triptychs, are on loan from the Museum and had been integrated into the Cathedral’s current interior.

One of the triptychs from the Royal Museum of Fine Arts on display in the Antwerp Cathedral.

As the initially Gothic interior was completed in the renaissance, baroque, and later neo-Gothic style, walking around the Cathedral, you just must stop many times to observe the details. Do not forget to enter the oak choir-stall and to look up. The ceilings, in particular in the side naves, are decorated with frescoes of a very decent but still very decorative look.

Just a small selection of art pieces you can admire in the Cathedral.

Although admitted for visitors, the Cathedral is still an active place of worship. Understandably during a mass, it is off-limits for tourists (it includes regular masses as well as weddings and funerals). As I visited the Cathedral, it was close to 5 pm. Preparations for a mass were already taking place.

Our Lady of Antwerp

Notre Dame fire. A devastating moment to see

While inside, you might have thought it was eternal. And it is. But on Monday night it was a devastating moment to watch it burn. I heard the bad news of the Notre Dame fire around eight or nine in the evening. The spire was already collapsed and the fire quite extensive.

Today we live in the world, where news travels fast. The Notre Dame fire was of that importance that basically all major TV stations around Europe and in the US (I cannot say anything about the other continents) were broadcasting live pictures till very late night hours. Changing channels you were able to observe the rescue efforts. They were extensive and made a modern way.

Another communique was, much of the treasures had been carried out of the building. They had been deposited in a safe place.

First I was thinking, how it was possible in the modern world that a fire like that appeared at all. I was sitting paralyzed in front of the TV set wondering whether I would be able to see the interior yet again in my lifetime. But later in the night and in the morning I was glad to see how professionally the rescue was carried out.

As I started to follow, the Notre Dame fire rescue efforts, the flames were already in the North belfry. The news was, it might collapse as well. Temperature changes might have caused changes in the stone and in the binding material. Unbelievable. But shortly after a communique – the fire in the belfry was contained. Soon after, you could have seen red and white lights pointing into its interior. One of the broadcasting stations made a close-up. At that moment, I realized, there were firefighters inside, who scanned the belfry with a night vision device, probably equipped with a temperature detector as well. The other doused indicated spots with a stream of water to cool the stone construction slowly down. You could also have seen firefighters on ladders quite close to the top of the cathedral dousing its interior with water at several points.

The next morning, the firefighters published first photos and films of the interior. It was quite a relief. If candles were still burning in the back of the cathedral and many candles around the altar seemed to be untouched, it was clear the temperatures down inside were not as high as expected. Robots doused streams of water on the hot debris on the floor. The action was to contain the fire but also to cool the air down. If candles were intact, the stained glass windows were probably intact as well as paintings that were not possible to be removed under fire. Most of the damage would be because of the roof debris that had fallen down and of water used in action.

It seems still impossible to avoid fires in the very old buildings today. Yet the modern equipment and technology allow containing fires in a way that would be impossible even ten or twenty years ago.

The reconstruction will also not last for years as it used to be in the past. If you travel to Europe, visit the cathedrals, often you are told how difficult it was to rebuild a cathedral after a fire or warfare. Today, at least in the case of Notre Dame funding seems not to be a problem. Already hundreds of millions of Euros had been raised or declared. The main stone structure of the cathedral will be scanned and put into the mathematical models. Computers will do the math. This will not be trial and error as it used to be done in the past. To reconstruct the roof for sure modern materials will be used as we know already the oak beams replacement is not possible. Oakwood is rare, takes much time to grow, and the grown-up trees are mostly under protection. The reconstruction of the ceiling will arise some problems, for it will have to be reconstructed using the original technology. I wonder only what technique and materials will be used to rebuild the spire. Will it be the exact reflection of the old one or will it get some modern architectural touch? The bottleneck will be the expert labor. Specialists able to reconstruct pieces of art will probably have to come from all over Europe or even other continents. They will have to remove the damage caused by fire and water, as well as mechanical damage. Many working hours will be needed to remove smoke black from the stone facade outside and inside the cathedral. The laser technique will be used. It is precise but takes many but many working hours.

I have my doubts, whether the five-year timeline will be kept as the French President declares. Still, I think less than ten years will be needed to do the work. The Notre Dame will be rebuilt, and the interior reconstructed as it used to be many times before. It is hoped that most of us will be able to visit it yet again in the lifetime.

But today and for years to come, hopefully only a couple of years, this is just memories.

Notre Dame fire. A devastating moment to see

See the light, listen to silence

We arrived there on an early September morning. Autumn just began. It was full of light, warm sunlight flowing in through many windows. But it was still cold inside.

Everywhere was silence. But any move, a chair accidentally pushed by an inch or two sounded for a moment like a thunder present all around us, trembling against all walls till it died away.

True Norman Gothic. Witness to a thousand years of good and harsh times. Served as one of the most inhumane prisons in the history of England. Hosted the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry. Huge and austere, filled with warm light, but still cold. Silent but even capable of turning a slight move into trembling thunder in a split of a second.

The Cathedral Church of Christ, Blessed Mary the Virgin and St Cuthbert of Durham.

 

See the light, listen to silence