Mont St. Michel

Mont St. Michel and St. Michel Abbey. Located in Normandy, one of the most famous European buildings. Being of interest as well for its unusual location on a tidal island. Or the other way round. The whole structure, the fortifications, the monastery, and the small village at its foot were erected there because of the unusual location. Hardly accessible at high tide the Mont St. Michel has a fleur of seclusion but simultaneously has always been a very well defendable spot.

The internet resources say that around three million people are visiting this place yearly. This means that on average, about eight thousand people visit it on a day. Supposing that the crowds are bigger in summer vacation months, we quite quickly get at more than ten thousand a day. As there is only one way in and out, currently a newly (2014) constructed bridge serviced by shuttle buses (from a parking place 2.5 km away), at first sight, you see the crowds. But the island consists of a small village with a couple of narrow streets, fortifications and many chambers or halls on different levels in the monastery itself. In most parts of the abbey, you can move freely inside. I do not think you can get lost there, but still, it seems a bit like a maze. This is why there are always people around you, but you do not feel the crowds like in other very famous spots in Europe.

For the most part, the buildings of the Mont St. Michel are thousand-year-old, with many elements in a Roman style. As through history much happened, the buildings were reconstructed and rebuild a couple of times, some other styles appear, too. From outside you may have the impression the structure is very coherent, but inside you can easily see the additions.

In the mid-first millennium, it is said there was some monastic life at this place (that time called Mont Tombe). But in 709 the Archangel Michael appeared to a bishop and asked him to build in this place a church in his name. For anybody, who sometimes travels Europe for sightseeing purposes this will not be the first time as he or she hears of a building erected for this saint or renamed with his name. To explain shortly, St. Michael or Archangel Michael is a figure recognized in several religious systems. In Christianity, he is one of the archangels (usually three or seven, depending on the religion), probably the most important one. He is often presented with a sword for he is the commander of God’s army. Sometimes it is a balance, for he is the one, who decides a person’s fate after death, sending them to heaven or hell. In the early ages, the archangel was told to appear to people (important people) and ask them to build churches or monasteries in his name. Another prominent example of a famous building with this name is Castel Sant Angelo in Rome. It was initially named in honor of the emperor Hadrian, but the name was changed to Sant Angelo as St. Michael appeared to one of the popes.

In the early years, for different reasons, much money was flowing into the monastery not only from pilgrims but also from nobility and princes living around. Even Rollo, the Viking pirate who raided Normandy and first devastated some of the original buildings, after his conversion to Christianity, took care of this place and financially supported the community. The monastery was thus a very affluent one, sponsoring some other communities devoted to St. Michael. The monks were no longer living the life of monks rather enjoying life than enduring the austerities of the monastic life. But all the right things end. A prince invited Benedictines to St. Michel and ordered resident monks to either leave the place or join the Benedictine order. Benedictines, in turn, was an order following fixed daily rules around prayer and work … (>>>). The monastic life returned to St. Michel.

With time some countries started to dissolve monasteries, the reformation wave came to Western Europe, fewer and fewer monks stayed at St. Michel. The seclusion of this place was rediscovered by French kings, who used it as a prison. Primarily from the XV century, it was only the part of the monastery. Later on, during the French revolution and the Napoleonic times, it was serving solely as a prison for political opponents, mainly priests and other clergies. In the late XIX, the buildings were finally acknowledged as a historical monument. The prison was dissolved, all the damage repaired. The monastery life came back to this place only for a short period to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of establishing the Benedictine community. Today, it is said that only 30-40 people, including several monks and nuns, are residents to this place. But, as the island has its own hotel and restaurant base, also some other people may stay the night. But still, it is few in comparison to the crowds, who visit this place on daytime and low tide.

On approach

The exteriors

On the top

The interiors

How supplies had been brought in

The village below

All around

Mont St. Michel

Enjoying the Notre Dame

Notre Dame means ‘our Lady’. Although several cathedrals, basilicas, and churches around the world bear this name, the first association would be of Notre Dame de Paris, the famous medieval cathedral in the very heart of Paris.

Western and Southern Europe – from the tourists’ perspective – is famous for its medieval cathedrals. After having seen many of them, and having made many photos just to recollect memories in the future, today I have a bit lighter approach to sightseeing inside cathedrals. The picture above I made last summer, after a ten-day tour in Northern France. At that time, we visited at least one cathedral daily, so although being close to Notre Dame at the end of the trip, I did not feel the need to enter the interior. It would have been too much. But I have already been there, so if you are the first time in Paris, do not skip it, no matter how tired you are. This place is simply on a must-see list.

This year in February, I made time for a short three-day city break in Paris. This time it was a fully guided tour of a kind ‘Paris for beginners’. And I enjoyed it quite much, even with temperatures around 0 grade Celsius. The Notre Dame interior was naturally on the bucket list.

As in many places in Paris, we had to queue to enter. We were there around 1 pm, queued for half an hour, made the obligatory security check, and then spent another half hour inside. The interior is enormous, austere like in a typical Gothic cathedral. But somehow you feel warm inside – the light entering through colorful stain glass makes it very cozy and picturesque. The ambiance is like on photos below. I did not use either a filter nor a color enhancer on them.

The Notre Dame cathedral was constructed from the late XII to the mid-XIV century. The foundation stone was laid in 1163 during the reign of Louis VII, and the cathedral was largely completed in 1345. The cathedral’s construction was a collaborative effort involving several architects, builders, and craftsmen. Maurice de Sully, the Bishop of Paris, initiated the project, and successive generations of builders contributed to its realization. The choir was the first section to be completed around 1182, and the nave and the western façade were constructed in subsequent decades. While the main construction phase concluded in the 14th century, Notre-Dame continued to evolve through the years. It underwent renovations and alterations, reflecting changing tastes and needs.

It also underwent two waves of vandalism typical for revolutionaries of past ages. In the XVI century, this was the Huguenots, a grouping of Calvinist protestants, who on the crest of reformation damaged and devastated many churches in Western Europe. The Huguenots, as Calvinist Protestants, were iconoclasts, meaning they rejected religious images and symbols. As a result, they often damaged or destroyed religious art, statues, and other visual representations within Catholic churches. The extent of damage likely varied across different regions and churches, depending on the intensity of religious tensions and the zeal of the Huguenot factions involved.

The same happened during the French revolution in the late XVIII century. The revolutionaries, driven by anti-monarchical and anti-religious sentiments, targeted symbols of the ancien régime and the Catholic Church. Notre-Dame, being a prominent religious institution and a symbol of the monarchy, became a target for revolutionary fervor. In 1793, during the most radical phase of the French Revolution, the cathedral suffered significant damage. The revolutionaries repurposed Notre-Dame for secular purposes, renaming it the “Temple of Reason.” Religious artifacts were destroyed, and statues and sculptures were damaged or removed. The cathedral’s interior underwent considerable desecration. The iconic statues of the Kings of Judah on the façade of Notre-Dame were beheaded during this period, and the Gallery of Kings, which represented the monarchs of France, was also a casualty of the revolutionary iconoclasm. Additionally, stained glass windows were broken, and the cathedral’s treasures were plundered.

A popular practice widespread also in other European countries among different kinds of revolutionaries was beheading statues. A saint with no head had seemingly no identity. The practice also concerned reliefs (a relief was not destroyed, but heads of selected figures were cut off) and stained glass pictures (the heads of selected individuals were replaced with white glass) >>>. If you travel to France, take a closer look at pieces of art that decorate churches.

The contemporary look of the Notre Dame cathedral is, therefore, a result of a meticulous and long-lasting restoration process. Below some other photo impressions.

The cathedral is located on the Île de la Cité, an island in the very heart of Paris that was the place of the first settlement in the area. All the distances from Paris counted in France are calculated from a point located in the square close to the Notre Dame main entrance.

In Paris, there is a regular vessel service that offers a one hour tour alongside banks of the Seine. On its way a vessel sails around the island. As the ship approaches the island from the South East, one can enjoy one of the best views onto the cathedral from its backside.

Post Scriptum: Tragically, a devastating fire struck the cathedral on April 15, 2019, causing significant damage to its roof and spire. Efforts have been underway since then to restore and rebuild this historic masterpiece, ensuring that Notre-Dame’s legacy endures for future generations.

Enjoying the Notre Dame

Overcrowded

Enjoying my morning coffee, I opened a news feed. One of the headline news was that there is a problem of overcrowding in Venice, known in the winter season for its carnival festivities. And, there is a suggestion to limit access for those tourists who do not stay overnight in the city. Whether the news is actual or not, overcrowding in several spots worth sightseeing or spending holidays in Europe, and on other continents, is today a real problem both for inhabitants and for tourists. With the market liberalization in the skies, the opening of borders, including facilitation of student exchange, and probably some other factors playing the role, tourism seems to be booming.

In several major European cities like Paris, Rome or Barcelona, and others like historical Italian cities, the day-to-day life already became unbearable because of tourists. No matter the season. But the congestion becomes a nuisance for the tourists themselves, too. Last Sunday I was on the Eiffel Tour. A cold (around 0 degree Celsius) mid-February day, not the high season. The waiting time in the ticket & safety control zone and in the queue to the lift was around fifty minutes. The next day we were at the Louvre >>>. As we were an organized group that hired a guide, we entered the museum quite quickly by the back door. But still although not in the high season the museum was on the edge of overcrowding. As most of the exhibition rooms are enormous with quite good acoustics, there was a moment I caught myself at barely hearing my own thoughts. As we reached the room (or a hall) was the famous Mona Lisa is displayed, my only thought was to photograph the audience.

Louvre, Paris, crowds in fron of the Mona Lisa

A bit over a year ago in October 2015 I had the same experience in the Vatican Museums >>>. As the majority of exhibition rooms were smaller, there was not as much noise as in the Louvre, but still walking around was not possible in most parts of the museum. The only way to move around the museum was to march together with the crowds. 

Vatican Museums, the crowds are like that on the main sightseeing route.

One of the ways to avoid crowds is to get up early and reach the place before it crowds up to just contemplate the art or the place. With limited holiday leaves, there are many spots we want to visit one day. But, it is the only one that we can visit each morning. Still, even when on the spot in the morning, we are among those few for only half an hour or so … Or we can look for interesting places to visit that are not that popular with tourists. The overcrowding does not consider only historical objects. These are also famous sea and mountain resorts. Not ready for crowds, one has to be indeed very selective and make proper research on the internet before planning a trip.

The other solution is simply to accept the fact. Some small tricks like visiting a restroom ahead, carrying some little food and water or planning the day so that a part we spent in the crowds but later on we visit a less attended place to keep balance are always helpful.

A way to cope with overcrowding is, of course, imposing some kind of limitations. I have my doubts whether a regulation limiting access to Venice only for those who stay overnight would pass. But still, there are popular galleries that did so. My favorite example is the Galleria Borghese in Rome (>>>), on an absolute must-see list for an art fan visiting Rome. To get there, you have to apply for a reservation and be strictly on time. In exchange, you can visit it for two hours being one of only two hundred visitors allowed at the same time to the buildingThe only disadvantage is that if taking a spontaneous trip to Rome that we decide on a week ahead or so, we would probably not get the ticket at the right time.

 

Overcrowded