The village of Locronan

2019 By justmovingaround in FRANCE, Sightseeing Tags: France, Historic Towns and Cities, Medieval

Some time ago, we made us on a trip to visit Normandy and Brittany (Northern France). Besides sightseeing some prominent sites on a must-see list, our journey was about slowing down and walking the streets of picturesque historic towns and villages as well taking time to enjoy local specialties.

One of the spots on our itinerary was Locronan, a small historical village located in the Western part of the French Brittany. Unlike many historical places in this part of Europe, where carefully refurbished medieval buildings mix with modern shop windows and well-frequented elegant restaurants, Locronan seems to be somehow stuck in the past.

We visited this place on a rainy summer day. With only a few tourists walking the streets on that day, the site seemed to be like asleep. The village is quite small, with only a couple of main streets that all lead to the main square. The old houses built of granite stones are surrounded by much greenery often rooted or growing directly through walls. In side-streets, you can see one or two ruined properties left as they were by the owners but carefully taken care of by nature. Forgotten but somehow beautiful.

There are plenty of small restaurants in the village, but you will barely find there bigger shops. Only boutiques and craft workshops. It is said, only about eight hundred people inhabit this place. For a moment we talked to an old lady sitting in the window watching her beautiful garden growing in the rain. The life seemed to be very quiet and slow in Locronan on that day.

But you can clearly see that in the past it probably was a thriving spot. Indeed, for years during the 18th and 19th centuries Locronan was famous for its hemp fields, of which the local weavers produced sails and ropes. The place is located around twenty-five kilometers away from the sea. The proximity of Locronan to the coast made it a convenient destination for sailors in need of replacement equipment. The town became a bustling hub, frequented not only by local traders but also by seafarers who recognized the quality and reliability of the hemp-based products produced there.

The village was also a pilgrimage center. According to legend, Locronan was once around the 6th century a secluded refuge for Saint Ronan, an Irish hermit who sought solitude and spiritual contemplation in the area. Hence, many donations had been through ages flowing into the village. The local Gothic cathedral is on the must-see list while on site.

The village consists of houses almost entirely built in past ages, mostly in XVII or XVIII century. Since the early XX century, Locronan heritage is protected by law. One notable legal measure implemented to protect Locronan’s heritage is its designation as a “Monument Historique” (Historical Monument). This classification, established in France, grants the village a special status and imposes stringent regulations on any alterations or renovations made to its buildings and structures. The place is listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France.

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Szczecin

2018 By justmovingaround in Sightseeing Tags: Historic Towns and Cities, Poland

For a tourist, Szczecin is a city not that easy to handle. Still, it is a place I return with pleasure for years.

Szczecin is a city in northwestern Poland and the capital of the West Pomeranian Voivodeship. The area around Szczecin has been inhabited since ancient times, with evidence of settlements dating back to the Bronze Age. Over the centuries, the region was ruled by various tribes and nations, including the Slavic tribes, the Polish Piast dynasty, the German Hanseatic League, the Swedish Empire, and the Prussian Kingdom. Szczecin became a part of Poland in 1945 as a result of the Potsdam Conference, which determined the post-World War II borders and the allocation of territories among the victorious Allied powers.

The Hakenterasse by night seen from the promenade at the Odra river port bank. Hakenterasse is a historic terrace that was built in the early 20th century as part of the city’s redevelopment plan after a devastating fire in 1720. The terrace overlooks the Oder River and is located in the heart of Szczecin’s historic Old Town. Hakenterasse was designed by the German architect Georg Heermann and constructed between 1901 and 1904. The terrace consists of a series of buildings with ornate facades, including the Old City Hall and the New City Hall, which were connected by a bridge.

The city is barely accessible by another mode than a car. To get there from Warsaw, the capital city of Poland, you need more than six or even seven hours by a conventional train. No high-speed, comfortable trains reach this place. You can fly in, but the airport is located in a half-hour distance by car or a shuttle bus, or forty minutes by train. But trains are stopping there only several times a day. So you lose your time by waiting. No Uber service is available in the city. If you travel in three or four, a taxi is the best option. A taxi ride to the airport costs about 30 EUR.

Szczecin is a widespread city. It is also true for its historical parts. There are plenty of historical buildings in Szczecin widespread over a big area. A perfect place for a tourist keen to sightsee?

Theoreticall yes, but … to understand, why it is barely so, we need first some historical explanation.

Szczecin was never a traditional Polish territory. It even never belonged to Poland till 1945. It was assigned to Poland mainly by Soviet influence as a kind of compensation for vast Polish territories lost by the country after World War II to Soviet Russia in the East. Having assigned it to Poles, Soviet Russians came back once or twice, till Szczecin was given to Poland for good. So, not being sure of the city’s future fate, Poles did not invest much into the city for years. The juxtaposition of old historical facades, often left unrenovated, alongside socialistic-style blocks of flats that completely disregard the historical city style is a disheartening sight. It reflects the apparent lack of architectural protection for historical areas, a situation sadly not unique to Poland. This clash of architectural styles serves as a stark reminder of the challenges in preserving the cultural and historical heritage of cities.

One of the many historical buildings you can find all over the city of Szczecin, a location of a Primary School established in 1873.

Another historical building, in a different style from the one above. You may find it in the vicinity of the city of the basilica. The building is called the Palace under the Globe. The original baroque residence that stood on this site was called Grumbkow Palace (as the seat of the Chief President of the Pomeranian Province, Philipp Otto von Grumbkow). In 1890, it was purchased by the “National” Insurance Company and thoroughly rebuilt. The globe, which crowns the top and from which the current name of the building comes from, was a symbol of the global reach of the “National” company’s business interests. During World War II, the palace survived in a state of almost intact.

Szczecin was a birthplace of two Russian Tsarins. In 1759, Sophia Dorothea of Württemberg, later known as Maria Feodorovna, the wife of Tsar Paul I, was born in 1890 in the Palace under the Globe. But Szczecin is also a birth place to the probabely the most famous Tsarin of Russia. Catherine II was born in 1729 in an impressive building at now Farna Street. The building was rented by Catherine’s father, Prince Christian August of Anhalt-Zerbst, from the president of the Szczecin Chamber of Commerce. Christian August lived there with his wife Joanna of the Holstein-Gottorp family. When Christian August was appointed governor of Szczecin and commander of the newly built fortress, the family moved to the Szczecin castle and resided on the first floor of the western wing.

The old town around the beautiful white castle is practically none. The few old buildings do not offer any place you can take a longer walk. The old city is even smaller than that of Warsaw (that you can easily cross within 10-15 minutes). Many spots within the area are ring-fenced as construction sites. It is so for years. The white castle itself looks well from outside, with exteriors carefully renovated. The internal yard is, however, full of stuff that gives it a messy look. It is so for years, too. Nothing is exciting to see within the castle chambers, neither. Besides, much of the premises is occupied by offices. Many people go through the internal yard because it gives you a shortcut through the old town area. To get from the old town to the Hakenterrasse, another complex of old buildings, you have to cross a wide street under numerous flyovers. Not a pleasant walk at all. The same is true for Boleslaw Xth Street and its surroundings.

The main old town market. Practically, with two or three adjacent streets, it constitutes what we may call the old town of Szczecin.

Still, the city has its fleur and numerous interesting spots with good food nearby. If properly taken care of, Szczecin would remind you of the historical city of Brussels – with many historical buildings widespread through miles reachable by a dense tram network. Using trams, you can get around the historical city shortening so walk times between the most exciting spots. A 24 hours public transport ticket costs around 3 EUR. Trams and buses also operate in the late evenings with waiting times displayed at the stops. On the must-visit-and-taste list, there is the Boleslaw X Street pedestrian zone section in the middle of it, with many various restaurants open and truly busy in the evenings, restaurants around the old town market with the famous Wyszak brewery in its midst as well as the old-police-station restaurant/brewery near the Maritime Office. At the top of the Hakenterrasse, there are at least two bigger restaurants with much outdoor space open on warm days.

The basement interior of the Wyszak brewery. It is the building you may find on the left-hand side of the photo above.

Plain and simple, the fish soup. This one I was served in the old-police-station restaurant.

Boleslaw X Street with numerous restaurants open in the evenings. To get not a crowdy look and protect people’s privacy, I had to wait some minutes.

The banks of the Odra river had been recently modernized to serve as a community zone. You will find there many people enjoying their evenings outdoors with a number of them quietly … fishing in the Odra river. As the sun sets down behind the historical city, in the late afternoon or early evening, you would like to spend some time at the Odra banks to simply enjoy the city panorama. From left to right you will see the basilica, the white castle as well as the historical buildings above the Hakenterasse. A tram line alongside the river banks at the historical side of the city would allow you to skip the walk time from the old town to the feet of the Hakenterasse. Even if you like to walk, you will still need your feet to get upstairs to the latter.

A man fishing at the promenade on the Odra river bank. The view is onto the basilica and the white castle. The Hakenterrasse is to the right.

Szczecin Castle, also known as the Ducal Castle was built in the 14th century by the Duke of Pomerania, Barnim III. The castle was originally built in Gothic style, but it has been rebuilt and renovated numerous times over the centuries, resulting in a mix of architectural styles. The castle was an important seat of power for the dukes of Pomerania, who ruled the region from the 12th century until 1637. After the Thirty Years’ War, the region came under Swedish rule, and the castle became the seat of the Swedish governor. The castle was heavily damaged during World War II, and it was restored in the years following the war. You can visit the castle, but do not expect sightseeing some noble chambers. There a exposition halls inside, but the most of the castle is location of city hall and other offices.

The upgraded Odra river banks late in the night. The main party is on the promenade on the opposite side of the river

Besides, in some parts of the city, you will find walkways with plane trees above, which is not that typical look in the Polish cities. Below a gallery of photos I made recently in Szczecin. This is only the beautiful spots, which, as said above, is barely true about the whole city.

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Beauvais

2018 By justmovingaround in Sightseeing Tags: France, Historic Towns and Cities

Three years ago, on a trip to Portugal, I met a lady who used to work in a news agency as the chief international editor. A year after I met her again while in England and Scotland. We had a loose conversation about making photos on sightseeing trips. She told me (quite bluntly, probably used to criticize the young and inexperienced) that it was not essential to make overall views unless I wanted to make a reportage. That what counts these are the impressions. Although I still keep a habit of documenting the whole trip, I try to have in mind her words and to be blunt, I enjoy it. Below some photo impressions from the French Beauvais.

BEAUVAIS – A HISTORICAL NOTE

Beauvais has a long and rich history dating back to the Roman era, when it was known as Caesaromagus. During the Middle Ages, Beauvais was an important center of the woolen textile industry and the seat of a powerful bishopric. One of the most notable events in Beauvais’ history was the building of the Saint-Pierre Cathedral in the 13th century. The cathedral was designed to be the largest in France, with a height of 153 meters. However, due to structural problems and financial difficulties, only the choir and transept were completed, leaving the cathedral with a distinctive and unusual appearance.

During the Hundred Years’ War between France and England in the 14th and 15th centuries, Beauvais suffered greatly. The city was sacked several times and much of its architecture and infrastructure was destroyed. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Beauvais experienced a period of relative peace and prosperity, during which time many of its most impressive buildings were constructed, including the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) and the Galerie Nationale de la Tapisserie. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Beauvais became an important center of the textile industry once again, specializing in the production of fine tapestries and carpets. The city also played a significant role in the French Revolution, with many of its citizens actively participating in the revolutionary movement.

During the World War II Beauvais was subjected to bombing raids by Allied forces, particularly in the lead-up to the Normandy landings in June 1944. Many buildings, including the Saint-Pierre Cathedral, had suffered damage during the war and required extensive repairs. The historical city of Beauvais is big and to some extent reconstructed after World War II bombings. But some parts are preserved as they used to be hundreds of years ago.

GALLERY OF PHOTO IMPRESSIONS

A view onto the enormous Gothic cathedral of Beauvais seen from a street with well-preserved old buildings. Buildings constructed of half-timbered walls are typical for this part of Europe. It is one of my favorite pictures from last year’s trip to France.

A wall of one of the houses in the street on the photo above. The half-timbered walls are filled in a very decorative way. The style is rather unusual.

And yet another one, less decorative but typical for this part of France.

Half-timbered houses houses are a type of building construction that were common in Europe during the medieval period, specifically between the 12th and 16th centuries. These buildings are characterized by their wooden frames, which are filled in with materials such as brick, stone, or plaster, often arranged in decorative patterns like herringbone or chevron. The technique of half-timbering allowed for the construction of sturdy yet flexible structures, which could better withstand the natural movements of the ground and changes in temperature and humidity. The wooden frame is left visible on the exterior of the building, creating a distinctive pattern of exposed timbers, often referred to as “black and white” when dark-stained wood contrasts with white infill. This method was not only practical but also aesthetically pleasing, and it became a hallmark of medieval European towns and cities.