Rouen

Normandy is today best known to the world as a place where the allied forces landed onshore to begin one of the most significant military operations in world history that finally ended with the defeat of Nazi Germany.  The other association that comes forth quite quickly is the famous Mont St. Michel Abbey – one of the most frequently visited spots in Europe.

Yet, Normandy played quite a role in the history of Europe already at the beginning of the second Millennium. Like other coastal locations of the Western and Northern Europe, Normandy became a target of Viking raiders, who looted it many times. One of the Viking leaders known as Rollo made peace with a French king. In exchange for a right to settle down in Normandy, he promised to cease hostilities and accepted Christianity. With years, the Viking descendants melted with the local community giving birth to the so-called Norman culture.

A Norman king William, later known as William the Conqueror, claimed his rights to the English throne, which that time was in the hands of another branch of Viking descendants. After the successful military campaign, he was crowned as the king of England and introduced the Norman order in the English society.

For more than two hundred years, from XII to XV century,  the so-called Anglo-Norman dynasty ruled both England and Northern parts of France. The Anglo-Norman language was the official language that for good influenced English leaving it with many words of Nordic or German (Vikings) and French origin.

The very center of Normandy is Rouen, with its beautiful historic city dominated by a huge Gothic cathedral. In its right nave, you will find the grave of Rollo, the Viking who had chosen Normandy his home. The Cathedral of Rouen was many times partially destroyed by warfare, bombing, religious schisms, revolution, lighting, fire as well as construction mistakes. The list of damage is quite a long one. Yet each time it was rebuilt. Its contemporary look took hundred of years of works and many funds. Already if you look at its front, you will notice at the first site the architectural inconsistencies between its parts (compare, for example, the design of towers).

The cathedral of Rouen.

The historical city of Rouen, like many other historical cities in the region, had been carefully refurbished. Of interest are, of course, the half-timbered houses with timber frames painted in different colors. Half timbering was a construction technique used in medieval times in Western and Northern Europe. The main structure of a house was made of wooden poles. The space between them was filled with other materials, sometimes stone, but sometimes a mixture of cheaper ones. The upper floors of those houses were often bigger than the basement or chambers of a higher floor overhang over the first floor over the street. This way, the builders kept the streets wider but provided more housing space on the upper floors.

Half-timbered houses in the historical city of Rouen.

Yet, the city of Rouen witnessed another legendary event in its early years. If you get to the main square of the historical city in its midst, you will find a church. To be frank, it looks a bit as off place. But if you walk it around, you will find a small field of wildflowers and a small board beneath it explaining that it is where Jeanne d’Arc, a French hero, was burned at stake. At the church wall, a bit hidden, you will find a statue of Joanne d’Arc consumed by flames.

The main square of the historic city of Rouen. In its midst, a church, and behind it, the place where Joanne d’Arc was burned at stake.

Jeanne d’Arc (1412-1431) called the Maid of Orléans was a hero of the so-called 100 years war, a period when France struggled to recover from the English domination. The war started as the descendants of William the Conqueror (of the English-Norman dynasty) claimed through years the right to the French throne.

As a teenager, Jeanne d’Arc had a vision of saints, who told her to fight against the English and help the French Dauphin (heir to the French throne) to regain the rule over the French territory. Following her visions, she engaged in politics and military actions. Ultimately, she managed to attract the interest of the French Dauphin himself. Although she was wearing armor, according to historians, she never engaged in a fight. But on battlefields, she carried a banner. She was serving as a military advisor, as well.

For the fate of the campaign against the English changed with her appearance (including the ending of the siege of Orleans), she gained a symbolic status.

After she was captured by a group of French nobles allied with the English, she stood trial and was burned at stake on 30 May 1431. Ages later, she was declared a national symbol of France by the decision of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Rouen

Cracow

Cracow, is one of the largest cities in Poland, formerly the royal capital city of Poland (see map). Through its history, Poland had three capital cities, Gniezno, Cracow, and from the mid-XVI century, it has been Warsaw. The Cracow old town is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. It combines Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture. Unlike the old city of Warsaw that was almost entirely destroyed during World War II and needed full reconstruction >>>, the historic town of Cracow is large and well-preserved.

To get to Cracow, we took a high-speed train from Warsaw. We spent the afternoon in the Cracow old town, enjoying architecture and good Polish food. We did not have much time, but we managed to make also a two-hour tour in the royal castle cathedral. We climbed up the stairs to the bell tower to see the city panorama, and at the close, Sigismund considered the most prominent bell in the country.

The royal castle, in medieval ages the seat of Polish kings, is located on a hill a bit separate from the old town center. So, you have to take an additional half an hour to reach it. We approached the castle hill to the left side, then entered the castle boundaries, went to the castle internal yard, and went back to visit the cathedral.

Below the castle hill. To reach the castle boundaries, we turned left.

Inside the castle boundaries. The building to the left is the castle cathedral. To enter the internal castle yard, we had to go alongside the cathedral to a gate (like most of the people on the photo) and then turn right. 

Inside the internal castle yard.

On our way back to the city. Turning around to see the castle cathedral tower. To reach the place where we started our approach of the castle hill, we had to go to the left side of the photo.

The Castle Cathedral is a place were Polish kings had been crowned. It was also the leading burial site for kings and prominent Poles like national heroes and poets. One of the kings buried here is Jan III Sobieski, the one who led the Battle of Vienna, decisive for stopping the Ottoman Empire to conquer Europe in the Middle Ages >>>. The Cathedral itself is located within the Castle boundaries (compare photo above). It means to extend it (like to construct an additional chapel as a tribute to another king); one had to keep it small. The cathedral was originally Gothic, but through years it was extended with other architectural styles. So you can see Renaissance and Baroque architecture, too. The Cathedral is therefore different from those we can visit in other places in Europe. If you are in Cracow, do not confuse it with the Basilica located in the main square of the old town. That one does not look very impressive from the outside, but its interiors are worthwhile. They are also different from that you can see elsewhere (unfortunately, you cannot take photos inside).

Inside the cathedral belfry, there is a bell called Sigismund – the most prominent in Poland. Its ringing marks the most important events in the country. At present these are national days (3rd of May and the 11th of November), religious holidays (Poland is traditionally Catholic) as well as significant events for the country like anniversaries or funerals of prominent Poles.

The bell is called Sigismund after the king who commissioned it. It was cast in 1520, weighs almost 13 tonnes, and requires 12 bell-ringers to swing it. To see Sigismund that close, one has to climb a couple of hundred steep steps.

Many tourists come to Cracow on weekends taking trains or flying in. Many restaurants are offering traditional Polish food as well as many discos and night clubs.

Cracow

The historic city of Bruges

A couple months ago, while on business in Brussels, I decided to make a short trip to Bruges located North-West of the European capital in a couple kilometers distance from the English Channel. I visited this city once and remembered it as full of medieval architecture and many water channels. That time I did not enjoy it much as it was quite heavily raining the whole day. This time the weather was just fine. So, I spent around four or five hours walking the streets of the historic medieval city of Bruges.

The area is told to be the most significant medieval city area preserved in Europe. First, it is to the fact that Bruges was one of the leading commercial centers in medieval Europe. Some historians even say that for some period, the most important one. The city was simply very rich, or at least many of its inhabitants, either locals or foreign ones, were very affluent people. (The inequalities led once or twice to social unrest and political interventions). Secondly, because besides a few smaller events, the city was neither devastated by a bigger fire nor leveled to the ground by warfare.

In general, it is true. But some additional explanation is needed here. The city was thriving in the early Middle Ages thanks to the tidal inlet that connected it with the sea. Its economic existence was, however, endangered as in the late XI and early XII century, a gradual silting caused the city to lose its direct access to the sea. A storm in 1134 re-established access through a natural channel. For years, Bruges was a thriving harbor connecting merchants from the North (England, Scandinavia), West (through Hanseatic League), and South (Italian merchant cities, Spain, Portugal). Merchant or trading usances developed by the city authorities and the merchant guilds became the very basis of the modern exchange trading.

Around 1500 slitting closed the channel for good. The city lost its position and many affluent inhabitants to nearby Antwerp. A decline that lasted for almost four hundred years began. Like other wealthy cities of Northern Europe, Bruges was looted in times of the religious wars in the XVI century, French Revolution and Napoleonic wars in the late XVII and XIX centuries). Much furniture, stained glass, paintings, and tapestries were destroyed or in later years sold to art dealers or antiquaries, who resold them internationally.

Bruges has the style of its own, and the buildings are for sure historical ones. However, early medieval Bruges, besides some brick Gothic architecture, was mainly a wooden city. Bruges, we can admire today, has in most parts brick facades with characteristic step gabbling. Only a few wooden structures are preserved. Thus, in the years between the Middle Ages and the present day, the city was reconstructed. The wooden facades were replaced as they had been susceptible to fire. The interior construction of many houses is, however, still of the past ages. The medieval origins of the city are mostly well preserved in its street pattern, with main roads leading towards the important public squares and the network of canals once used for the mercantile traffic. Most buildings have retained the original parcels of land. The actual revival of Bruges was a direct consequence of damage and thievery that plagued the city in the XVIII and XIX centuries. The local community, as well as many immigrants from England, fought to stop the practice and engaged in revitalizing the city. There is no sign of radical damage today. In fact, the city is very well taken care of. The ‘conservation movement’ also prevented the conversion of the city-style into a more modern look as it happened, for example, in Brussels. Bruges also seems to have missed the XIX century industrial revolution. The old/modern facades are described as of Neo-Gothic style that is specific for Bruges. The recent additions of XIX and XX centuries fit well the overall picture.

The historical city of Bruges is not that initially medieval as it is often claimed, but still, it is one of the most interesting historical cities in Europe.

The historic city of Bruges