Medieval life reconstructed at the Stirling Castle

Stirling Castle was a seat of Scottish kings (see map). It was built originally in the XIIth century. Throughout the turbulent Scottish Wars of Independence, Stirling Castle played a critical role, frequently changing hands between the Scots and the English.

The Scottish Wars of Independence, spanning from 1296 to 1357, were pivotal in shaping Scotland’s national identity. Initiated by English King Edward I’s attempt to annex Scotland, these wars comprised two major phases. The First War (1296-1328) saw iconic figures like William Wallace and Robert the Bruce emerge. Wallace’s victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297 became a symbol of resistance, but it was Robert the Bruce’s triumph at Bannockburn in 1314 that was decisive. The Declaration of Arbroath in 1320, asserting Scotland’s sovereignty, further solidified this period’s significance. The Second War (1332-1357) involved less direct combat but was marked by political intrigue and smaller skirmishes. These conflicts ended with the Treaty of Berwick in 1357, affirming Scotland’s independence. The wars left a lasting legacy of Scottish resilience and the enduring pursuit of self-governance.

The story of William Wallace wa told in the film “Braveheart”, where Wallace was portrayed by Mel Gibson. However, the film takes creative liberties with historical facts. Despite the film’s portrayal, in historical records, it is Robert the Bruce, not William Wallace, who is referred to as “Braveheart”.

The William Wallace monument seen from over the walls of the Stirling Castle

The castle as we can admire it today was constructed in XVth, XVIth, XVIIth and early XVIIIth century by successful additions of new premises inside and outside the castle defensive walls. It was mostly in times as it served as the Scottish royal residence.

Later on, the Stirling castle served as an army barrack and a military depot. From the mid-XXth century, much effort had been given to restore the interiors so that they can provide at least a grasp of medieval life. The restored chambers have been opened since 2011.

The internal yard of the Stirling Castle

I must say I enjoyed the sightseeing in Stirling Castle very much. Usually, when visiting castles, you are let in, and go along a predefined route, with no return possibilities. Stirling is organized more openly. You can enjoy it outdoors as well as indoors, freely moving around. Of course, in royal chambers, you follow a defined route entering by one door and leaving by another. By you can return to previous chambers if you want to.  It is also possible to make the route once again as the order, in which you visit the castle premises is up to you.

The Stirling castle exteriors

Of the interiors, you can visit the royal lodgings. The chambers are restored, but only a few of them contain furniture so that you can see how it was in the past. Besides the furniture, you can admire hand-woven tapestries. This is not the originals. Still, they had been reconstructed recently to recapture the atmosphere of the Scottish royal court.

During our visit, there were at least three guides inside, each working in another chamber, wearing dedicated clothing and patiently answering questions asked by visitors.

The royal lodgings

The part of the building, where the royal lodgings are located, was turned into a small museum showing not only the history of the castle but also giving insights into the history of Scotland.

A part of the castle I found interesting was the kitchen, fully equipped, with wax figures and food replicas. We arrived at the Stirling castle in the very morning to enter among the first groups on the opening. I left my fellows and somehow found my way to the kitchens. I had around twenty minutes being alone there, so making clean photos was quite easy. Later in royal chambers, taking clean photos turned out to be difficult as the chambers were full of visitors.

The reconstructed castle’s kitchen

 

Medieval life reconstructed at the Stirling Castle

Walking the Streets of Historical Ghent

Once again on assignment in Brussels, with work spread over two weeks, I decided to spend the weekend in Belgium. On a rainy Saturday morning, I nearly gave up hope of salvaging the day. But when the skies cleared in the afternoon, I stuck to my original plan. Armed with two cameras, I set off to explore the historic city of Ghent.

Ghent is one of the largest cities in Flanders, located at the confluence of the Leie and Scheldt rivers. In the Middle Ages, it grew into a major centre for trade and textiles, and by the 14th century it ranked among the richest and most influential cities in Europe. Many Gothic landmarks from that period are still standing today, including the Gravensteen castle, St Bavo’s Cathedral and the Belfry.

Here, I’m showing Ghent the way I saw it for the first time – in photos and in the order I walked through it.

The heart of historic Ghent. If you take tram no. 1 from Sint-Pieters railway station to the old town, you’ll get off at Korenmarkt – the point where the dark red and green lines meet on my map.

First, as you look up, you see a street lined with tall Gothic buildings, and above the main roads, a web of cables and tram tracks. It’s an unusual mix. The area is closed to private cars, but as you walk around, you still need to watch out for trams and buses regularly crossing your path.

I bought a day ticket (EUR 7), which turned out to be very useful. If I wanted to change location quickly, instead of walking an extra 10–15 minutes there and back, I could just shorten the route by using a tram. During my four, maybe five hours in the city, I was either walking or taking the tram along two or three streets, leaving the area only once or twice. As it got later in the afternoon, I changed locations to catch the views in different light conditions. As usual, I took plenty of photos. Below is just a selection. Enjoy!

The first view as you get off the tram: to the right, the Saint Nicholas Church, and further back, the 14th-century Belfry (marked by the dark red line on my map). To the left, the Korenmarkt (green line view).

So let us first walk to the right alongside the Saint Bavo Street (dark red line).

Saint Bavo Street. In the first photo, to the left is the Belfry, and straight ahead, the Saint Bavo Cathedral – originally a Romanesque church, rebuilt from the mid-13th century in Gothic style. Shortly before construction was completed in the mid-16th century, the church was plundered by a Calvinist sect: stained glass windows and statues were smashed, and paintings and other artworks destroyed. In the following photos, the Cathedral is shown from the front.

Now I’m standing with my back to the Cathedral. The photos, from left to right, show the Belfry, the passage beside it with the Town Hall in the middle, and on the right, some beautiful buildings on the Cathedral square. My next steps will take me through the passage to the other side of the Belfry (blue line).

The side street led me to the Town Hall (in the first photo, on my left). In the next picture, a quick look up at the Town Hall tower. On the way back, once again, the Belfry appears ahead. I’m now walking back along the blue line on my map.

Yet again, a look up at the Belfry. The way back now leads westward, against the sun. Behind the Belfry stands the Saint Nicholas Church once more – the spot where I first got off tram no. 1. On my map, I’m walking back along the dark red line.

Korenmarkt. On my right-hand side (in the last photo), the other side of the Saint Nicholas Church. I’m now walking along the green line, then turning back westward towards the famous Ghent port quays.

A reverse view from the west side looking east along Saint Bavo Street. In front is the Saint Nicholas Church, further back the Belfry, and in the distance, the Saint Bavo Cathedral. The second photo was taken three hours later than the first one, with the sun already setting – the buildings appear warmer in tone. I’m standing on the Saint Michael’s Bridge, over the River Leie.

On the Saint Michael’s Bridge, looking out over the River Leie (along the pink line on my map). Behind me stands the massive Saint Michael’s Church – I only realised its full scale as I walked down the bridge to the Leie boulevard.

The front view opens onto the Leie boulevards: on my right, the Grass Quay (Graslei), and on my left, the Corn Quay (Korenlei). Both quays were part of the Port of Ghent in medieval times.

On the Leie boulevard behind Korenmarkt, I’m standing on the Corn Quay, looking across at the guild houses on the Grass Quay. In their midst stands the Gildenhuis van de Vrije Schippers. The façades of these medieval buildings were extensively refurbished in the 19th century. I’m now walking along the pink line.

Walking down the Leie boulevards and crossing two more bridges, I reached the Gravensteen – a moated castle originally founded in the 10th century and rebuilt in the late 12th century after a fire. It served its original purpose only until the mid-14th century, after which it shared the fate of many similar buildings across Europe: it was used as a prison, then as a mint, and for a time even as a factory. It was later restored by the Ghent authorities in the 19th century. To move from the pink line to the yellow line on my map, I returned to Korenmarkt via a different bridge to catch a tram. The last photo shows the castle from the back.

Walking the Streets of Historical Ghent

The village of Locronan

Some time ago, we made us on a trip to visit Normandy and Brittany (Northern France). Besides sightseeing some prominent sites on a must-see list, our journey was about slowing down and walking the streets of picturesque historic towns and villages as well taking time to enjoy local specialties.

One of the spots on our itinerary was Locronan, a small historical village located in the Western part of the French Brittany. Unlike many historical places in this part of Europe, where carefully refurbished medieval buildings mix with modern shop windows and well-frequented elegant restaurants, Locronan seems to be somehow stuck in the past.

We visited this place on a rainy summer day. With only a few tourists walking the streets on that day, the site seemed to be like asleep. The village is quite small, with only a couple of main streets that all lead to the main square. The old houses built of granite stones are surrounded by much greenery often rooted or growing directly through walls. In side-streets, you can see one or two ruined properties left as they were by the owners but carefully taken care of by nature. Forgotten but somehow beautiful.

There are plenty of small restaurants in the village, but you will barely find there bigger shops. Only boutiques and craft workshops. It is said, only about eight hundred people inhabit this place. For a moment we talked to an old lady sitting in the window watching her beautiful garden growing in the rain. The life seemed to be very quiet and slow in Locronan on that day.

But you can clearly see that in the past it probably was a thriving spot. Indeed, for years during the 18th and 19th centuries Locronan was famous for its hemp fields, of which the local weavers produced sails and ropes. The place is located around twenty-five kilometers away from the sea. The proximity of Locronan to the coast made it a convenient destination for sailors in need of replacement equipment. The town became a bustling hub, frequented not only by local traders but also by seafarers who recognized the quality and reliability of the hemp-based products produced there.

The village was also a pilgrimage center. According to legend, Locronan was once around the 6th century a secluded refuge for Saint Ronan, an Irish hermit who sought solitude and spiritual contemplation in the area. Hence, many donations had been through ages flowing into the village. The local Gothic cathedral is on the must-see list while on site.

The village consists of houses almost entirely built in past ages, mostly in XVII or XVIII century. Since the early XX century, Locronan heritage is protected by law. One notable legal measure implemented to protect Locronan’s heritage is its designation as a “Monument Historique” (Historical Monument). This classification, established in France, grants the village a special status and imposes stringent regulations on any alterations or renovations made to its buildings and structures. The place is listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France.

The village of Locronan