Sacre Coeur of Paris

 

Perched atop the highest point in Paris, atop the Montmartre hill, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart (French: Sacré-Cœur), stands as a beacon of spirituality and architectural splendor seemingly watching the city. Its elevated position not only makes it visible from almost any point in the city. The Basilica was consecrated in 1919.

The decision to construct Sacre Coeur Basilica was not merely architectural; it was deeply entwined with the historical and political fabric of post-1871 France. The Basilica was envisioned as a spiritual penance for the perceived sins of the city and its citizens during the turbulent years of the Franco-Prussian War and the Paris Commune. Its construction was funded entirely by public donations, showcasing a collective act of contrition and devotion.

This architectural masterpiece, designed by Paul Abadie, seamlessly blends Romanesque and Byzantine influences, contributing to its distinctive appearance. Sacre Coeur’s architectural style is a harmonious fusion of Romanesque and Byzantine elements. The use of arches, domes, and semi-domes pays homage to Byzantine architecture, while the robust simplicity of the stone façade reflects Romanesque principles. This stylistic amalgamation results in a basilica that stands as a unique and enduring testament to the craftsmanship of its time.

The construction of Sacre Coeur presented engineering challenges due to its location on the summit of Montmartre, known for unstable terrain. To address this, a unique foundation was designed using an assembly of concrete and iron that distributes the weight evenly. The basilica’s interior features one of the world’s largest mosaics, covering an area of 480 square meters. The mosaic, created by Luc-Olivier Merson, depicts Christ in Glory and is composed of over a million pieces of colored glass. In an unusual departure from contemporary architectural practices, Sacre Coeur’s construction minimized the use of steel, a material that was commonly employed in the buildings of that era. This decision aimed to preserve the basilica’s white color by avoiding the rust associated with exposed steel. The stone used in the construction contains a natural element that releases calcite when it rains. This process helps to naturally clean the façade, contributing to the basilica’s enduring brightness.

Apart from its religious significance, Sacré-Cœur hosts cultural events, including classical music concerts and choirs. The acoustics within the basilica make it an exceptional venue for musical performances, adding to its role as a cultural landmark.

Sacre Coeur of Paris

The Louvre

Louvre originally built as a fortress in the late XIIth century by King Philip II is a former seat of French kings and one of the most famous museums in Europe.

The fortress was transformed into a luxurious royal residence by the French king Charles V in the XIV century during the Renaissance period. Much work had to be done, beginning with building in windows to put light on the premises. The walls were raised, new and old ceilings embellished. was an avid art collector and expanded the Louvre’s collection with works by Italian masters such as Leonardo da Vinci. The Mona Lisa, acquired during his reign, became later one of the museum’s most iconic pieces. In the 17th century, during the reign of Louis XIII, the Louvre underwent further expansion.The last king, who used Louvre as a royal residence was Louis XIV.

Louis XIV, the Sun King, also played a significant role in the Louvre’s history. While he shifted the royal residence to Versailles, he continued to use the Louvre for various functions. Under his reign, architect Louis Le Vau expanded the Louvre’s footprint, creating the Cour Carrée (Square Courtyard). Louis XIV’s minister, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, initiated the establishment of the Royal Academy of Painting and Sculpture within the Louvre in 1648. This marked a pivotal moment in the Louvre’s transformation into a public institution dedicated to the arts. Although the Louvre’s role as a royal residence diminished over time, it continued to evolve as a center of artistic and cultural significance. By the end of Louis XIV’s reign in the late 17th century, the Louvre had laid the foundation for its future as one of the world’s most renowned museums. In 1682 the Louvre was formally envisioned as a place to display the royal collection. The museum as such opened a century later in 1793 during the French Revolution as a consequence of a decree by National Assembly.

The corridors and halls are indeed very spacious. Being accustomed only to the view of the main courtyard with pyramids, one does not comprehend how big this building is. As Louvre is located directly alongside the Seine, to see its true size it is good to take a look at the palace from the other side of the river.

The glass and metal pyramids in the main courtyard (a big one and three smaller ones) were built in 1989. Much controversy arose around them in the beginning, but with time somehow they had grown into the perspective. The big pyramid serves as the main entrance to the museum. It is used mainly by individual visitors. Organized groups are let in through another entrance at the right-wing of the palace (left-hand side if one faces the pyramids from the outside courtyard).

As Louvre is visited by thousands daily, the premises have been placed under additional security precautions. Inside one has to undergo a security check. There are also soldiers heavy-armed guarding the outer premises. (I made the picture below quite accidentally in Summer 2016, but the view is indeed not unusual).

The hall under the pyramids is of a modern look. There are many souvenir shops inside. For a moment you can get a feeling that you are in a very stylish shopping mall.

As the sightseeing starts with exhibition halls that are elegant but of decent design, you do not have a shock of exchanging modernity into the opulent royal design. However, some parts of the palace are kept as they were in royal times. Trespassing the ballroom door is like being transferred to another era. Inside, you will find some fine objects to be admired including the crown jewels with the crown that belonged to Luis XV (all other French royal crowns were lost or destroyed in times of revolution). However, do not forget to look onto walls, ceilings, and doors. There are pieces of art themselves.

Of things you have to be prepared for is that it is very loud in the museum, especially in those exhibition halls that are heavily occupied (>>>).  As the palace is indeed very big, you have to be also prepared for walking miles.

Below some photo impressions from the interiors and the collection (in random order).

M U S E E   D U   L O U V R E  

PHOTO  IMPRESSIONS (2017)  

The Louvre

Enjoying the Notre Dame

Notre Dame means ‘our Lady’. Although several cathedrals, basilicas, and churches around the world bear this name, the first association would be of Notre Dame de Paris, the famous medieval cathedral in the very heart of Paris.

Western and Southern Europe – from the tourists’ perspective – is famous for its medieval cathedrals. After having seen many of them, and having made many photos just to recollect memories in the future, today I have a bit lighter approach to sightseeing inside cathedrals. The picture above I made last summer, after a ten-day tour in Northern France. At that time, we visited at least one cathedral daily, so although being close to Notre Dame at the end of the trip, I did not feel the need to enter the interior. It would have been too much. But I have already been there, so if you are the first time in Paris, do not skip it, no matter how tired you are. This place is simply on a must-see list.

This year in February, I made time for a short three-day city break in Paris. This time it was a fully guided tour of a kind ‘Paris for beginners’. And I enjoyed it quite much, even with temperatures around 0 grade Celsius. The Notre Dame interior was naturally on the bucket list.

As in many places in Paris, we had to queue to enter. We were there around 1 pm, queued for half an hour, made the obligatory security check, and then spent another half hour inside. The interior is enormous, austere like in a typical Gothic cathedral. But somehow you feel warm inside – the light entering through colorful stain glass makes it very cozy and picturesque. The ambiance is like on photos below. I did not use either a filter nor a color enhancer on them.

The Notre Dame cathedral was constructed from the late XII to the mid-XIV century. The foundation stone was laid in 1163 during the reign of Louis VII, and the cathedral was largely completed in 1345. The cathedral’s construction was a collaborative effort involving several architects, builders, and craftsmen. Maurice de Sully, the Bishop of Paris, initiated the project, and successive generations of builders contributed to its realization. The choir was the first section to be completed around 1182, and the nave and the western façade were constructed in subsequent decades. While the main construction phase concluded in the 14th century, Notre-Dame continued to evolve through the years. It underwent renovations and alterations, reflecting changing tastes and needs.

It also underwent two waves of vandalism typical for revolutionaries of past ages. In the XVI century, this was the Huguenots, a grouping of Calvinist protestants, who on the crest of reformation damaged and devastated many churches in Western Europe. The Huguenots, as Calvinist Protestants, were iconoclasts, meaning they rejected religious images and symbols. As a result, they often damaged or destroyed religious art, statues, and other visual representations within Catholic churches. The extent of damage likely varied across different regions and churches, depending on the intensity of religious tensions and the zeal of the Huguenot factions involved.

The same happened during the French revolution in the late XVIII century. The revolutionaries, driven by anti-monarchical and anti-religious sentiments, targeted symbols of the ancien régime and the Catholic Church. Notre-Dame, being a prominent religious institution and a symbol of the monarchy, became a target for revolutionary fervor. In 1793, during the most radical phase of the French Revolution, the cathedral suffered significant damage. The revolutionaries repurposed Notre-Dame for secular purposes, renaming it the “Temple of Reason.” Religious artifacts were destroyed, and statues and sculptures were damaged or removed. The cathedral’s interior underwent considerable desecration. The iconic statues of the Kings of Judah on the façade of Notre-Dame were beheaded during this period, and the Gallery of Kings, which represented the monarchs of France, was also a casualty of the revolutionary iconoclasm. Additionally, stained glass windows were broken, and the cathedral’s treasures were plundered.

A popular practice widespread also in other European countries among different kinds of revolutionaries was beheading statues. A saint with no head had seemingly no identity. The practice also concerned reliefs (a relief was not destroyed, but heads of selected figures were cut off) and stained glass pictures (the heads of selected individuals were replaced with white glass) >>>. If you travel to France, take a closer look at pieces of art that decorate churches.

The contemporary look of the Notre Dame cathedral is, therefore, a result of a meticulous and long-lasting restoration process. Below some other photo impressions.

The cathedral is located on the Île de la Cité, an island in the very heart of Paris that was the place of the first settlement in the area. All the distances from Paris counted in France are calculated from a point located in the square close to the Notre Dame main entrance.

In Paris, there is a regular vessel service that offers a one hour tour alongside banks of the Seine. On its way a vessel sails around the island. As the ship approaches the island from the South East, one can enjoy one of the best views onto the cathedral from its backside.

Post Scriptum: Tragically, a devastating fire struck the cathedral on April 15, 2019, causing significant damage to its roof and spire. Efforts have been underway since then to restore and rebuild this historic masterpiece, ensuring that Notre-Dame’s legacy endures for future generations.

Enjoying the Notre Dame